Also called water pressure regulators, water pressure reducing valves are compact, inexpensive valves that perform two functions:
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When a fixture in a home is opened and water flows from it, it is because the water is "pushed." This "push" is pressure. The speed at which water flows from the opened outlet depends on the amount of "push" or pressure which exists at that time in the system. In short, the higher the pressure, the stronger the "push" behind the water.
High water pressure, which is generally considered anything above 60 lbs., has some advantage, such as in firefighting systems. However, in the home plumbing system, it can be damaging because water can erode or wear away many materials. A big "push" in home plumbing can also cause leaking water heaters, banging water pipes, dripping faucets, dishwasher, and clothes washer noise and breakdown, or leaking water pipes. Water flowing at a rate in excess of that necessary to satisfy normal fixture or appliance demands becomes damaging, wasteful, and reduces the life expectancy of equipment in the system. But, probably most important to the average homeowner is that it can add to the cost of water, energy, and waste water bills.
Yes, and water hammer is very simply the noise generated by the shocks of high-speed water flowing in a pipe when a fixture is suddenly closed. The sudden stoppage causes a "bounce back" of the water and is called water hammer, causing banging pipes, noisy systems, and damage to appliances. It might be comparable to driving your car at slow speed into a wall where the effect is negligible. However, if you drove the car at a much higher speed, the impact would be greater and, consequently, so would the bounce back or shock. Another description of the water hammer effect of high water pressure can be easily demonstrated. First, walk around a sharp corner and then run around the same corner. We can equate walking around the corner to a lower, more functional, controlled water pressure. However, when you run around the corner, the momentum forces your body to swing in a wider, uncontrolled arc. This principle is based on the fact that moving objects, and this includes water, tend to move in a straight line. They resist changes in direction. Therefore, in a home where the piping has many changes in direction, water hammer shock can be limited by reducing the water pressure.
Reducing the pressure from 100 lbs. to 50 lbs.will result in a savings of approximately 1/3 because 1/3 less water flows at this lower pressure. Remember, there is more "push" behind the water at 100 lbs. than at 50 lbs. and most of this water is wasted. Almost twice as much water flows at 150 lbs. than 50 lbs., most of which is wasted. Moderate savings would result if your supply pressure was 65 lbs. However, even at this lower pressure, savings with a water pressure reducing valves would be 20%.
Yes. In the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission conducted a test program in 2,400 dwelling units that has attracted widespread interest from more than 40 states and various foreign countries. One of the devices used in their conservation study was a water pressure reducing valves. It is interesting to note that their report concluded that in test locations using water pressure reducing valves, there was a water consumption reduction of 30% in October and November and 37% in December.
Water pressure reducing valves are commonly installed at the meter in residential, commercial, and industrial buildings. This location is desirable because it then controls the water pressure flowing to all appliances and outlets within the building and provides an inexpensive means of supplying lower, more functional water pressure to outlets and appliances.
Most people have considered water pressure reducing valves as pressure controls because, as described in the foregoing, they are used to protect appliances and piping from the effects of high water pressure. However, because of water and energy shortage in addition to cost problems, water pressure reducing valves have become increasingly more important because they automatically provide the advantage of conserving water and energy.
As mentioned before, 1/3 less water flows 50 lbs. than at 100 lbs. Therefore, when you reduce the city main pressure to a more moderate pressure of 50 lbs., you can look forward to conserving up to 1/3, or more, of the water previously consumed and this will be reflected on your water bills.
A typical family of four uses an average of 255 gallons of water each day for interior plumbing. This is broken down by: dishwashing - 15 gallons; cooking/drinking - 12 gallons; utility sink - 5 gallons laundry - 35 gallons; bathing - 80 gallons; bathroom sink - 8 gallons; toilet - 100 gallons. When you multiply this by a year, typical family usage totals 93,000 gallons of water. If you have teenagers, you would undoubtedly use more than the above averages.
When we can save 1/3 of the water previously consumed, this also represents a similar saving of water which will not be going into the sewer system where it has to be treated. Water does not evaporate after we use it and it has to be piped to the wastewater system. Many sewer bill taxes or surcharges are based on the amount of water you use, with the assumption that this water is going into the wastewater system. This is billed to you as a sewer surcharge and, in many cases, the sewer tax can equal the water cost. Therefore, when water pressure reducing valves save 1/3 of the metered water, they also contribute to saving up to 1/3 of the wastewater, which is extremely important because it benefits both the user, by a lower sewer bill, and the community, as this is water they do not have to treat.
The Environmental Protection Agency estimate that 30% of the water used in households is heated and, in order to heat this water, it takes energy. If a water pressure reducing valve can reduce consumption by 1/3, we automatically cut down on the amount of hot water we're using in lavatories and showers and, therefore, we automatically reduce the amount of energy required to heat that load. Thus, it can be easily seen that water conservation has a direct relationship to energy conservation. An average shower, for example, costs approximately 17 cents in energy and a shave with the faucet running cost 10 cents in energy.
A high rise office building in Chicago was designed using water conservation products which resulted in savings of more than 3,000,000 gallons of water per year. This is significant in that the municipal water utility did not have to pump the extra gallons, the water purification plant didn't have to treat it, while the building itself saved on pumping of 3,000,000 gallons, resulting in significant savings in energy by conserving hot water. Also, there were further savings by the fact that 3,000,000 gallons of water, or the normal portion thereof, did not have to be distributed to the wastewater system and consequently the water treatment plant did not have to retreat this water. The heating of water takes energy and it should also be remembered that "pumping" water from one place to another also requires a considerable amount of energy.
We have previously described the effects of high water pressure on piping and appliances. When having these appliances work under a lower pressure, their life expectancy will be much longer and will also cut down on service calls caused by problems with dish washers and clothes washers, leaky water heaters, leaking water pipes, and the potential water damage which could be resulting.
Yes. They are required by the Federal Housing Administration, the regional plumbing codes such as IPC and UPC, and numerous city and state codes. The requirement is that whenever the city main water pressure exceeds 80 lbs., a water pressure reducing valve must be installed. However, because of the recently acknowledged advantages of water pressure reducing valves conservation wise, they could be economically installed even where supply pressures are in the vicinity of 60 lbs. because of the water and energy saving benefits they can provide.
Water Pressure Reducing Valves have been described as "life-of-mortgage" products, because historically a malfunctioning water pressure reducing valve is not replaced but simply cleaned or repaired via an inexpensive service kit. Design-wise, it is similar to the kitchen faucet in that dirt or foreign matter on the seating area can cause problems and actually it is no more difficult to repair a water pressure reducing valve than it is to fix the kitchen faucet.
An average savings would be from $50 to $150 per year, probably much higher. Based on the fact that 1/3 less water flows at 50 lbs. than 100 lbs., you can expect to save up to 1/3 of the water previously consumed. As a typical family of four uses 90,000 gallons per year, that would mean a savings of approximately 30,000 gallons of water. The higher the pressure, the higher the savings. Lower pressures result in less savings. (Your water Company can provide the rate.) Remember also, however, that 1/3 of the water used in homes is heated; so 1/3 of the 30,000 gallons of water saved divided by 2 to reflect a cold water mixing factor would mean a savings in heating up to 5,000 gallons of hot water per year. If you figure 4 cents to heat a gallon of water, the savings would be $200.00. You can also figure on a savings in your sewer surcharge bill, since most of the 30,000 gallons of water saved will not be going into the wastewater system, therefore, you will not be assessed on that. (Contact your local authority for any assessment charges.) You would also have to figure the savings, generated by not having to have appliances repaired or replaced more frequently. This is a nebulous figure but, based on your own experience over the past years, you could look for a reduction in the frequency of maintenance and certainly for an improved performance by these appliances.
Certainly. The water pressure reducing valve is the hub of a conservation program; but you should also consider flow control devices, low-flush toilets, improved water heating equipment, and better disciplined habits by the user. However, if none of these devices were installed, the water pressure reducing valve would still serve to contribute important and significant savings in energy and water, resulting in average savings of anywhere from $50 to $150 per year, or more depending on your local rates.
Yes, and they can effectively be installed on showerheads, fixtures, and tankless heater boilers. Many showerheads, for example, apply water at a rate of 6gpm. Applying a 3gpm flow restrictor will cut the flow in half providing savings in water and energy. It should be remembered however that their capacity is based on a "fixed" supply pressure like 50 lbs. and operating under a higher pressure will permit greater flow. That's why we say a water pressure reducing valve is the "hub" of a program because it maintains a constant pressure throughout the home, thereby improving the performance of flow-restricting devices.
There are, of course, different styles of water pressure reducing valves and various installation charges throughout the country. An estimate can be obtained from your local qualified plumbing contractor. To determine how much you, as an individual, would be saving, it would be necessary to consider the factors in question 17, in comparing with your current water and energy bills.
A rule of thumb is: If you hear banging pipes in your home or observe water splashing in your sink, you probably have excessive pressure. However, for a precise reading, your local plumbing contractor or utility can test your pressure with a gauge.
The easiest way would be to call your local qualified plumbing contractor who can provide you with an estimate and also advise of the various types of water pressure reducing valves available and the one best suited for your home. Although water pressure reducing valves are fairly simple to install and could be a do-it-yourself project, there are some laws which mandate that only a licensed plumbing contractor be permitted to work on the home potable drinking water system for health and safety purposes.
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Steve4Physics
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Jan 28,Tags
In summary, a pressure reducing valve is useful to protect the plumbing from excessive (dynamic) pressure, but it is only useful if the static pressure is too high.
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Ive asked this question in a Plumbing Forum and got no answer. So I thought maybe the Physics Forum might be able to help.
My home has a high water supply pressure (>5bar) so Im considering using a pressure reducing valve (PRV). This is basically to help protect the plumbing, as the house (and the plumbing) are pretty old.
Most PRVs only reduce the dynamic pessure (while the water is flowing) but not the static pressure (when there is no flow).
But it is (presumably) high static pressure that, over time, causes seals to leak.
So what is the purpose of PRVs that only reduce dynamic pressure?
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I believe that this simpler solution would be more suitable in your case:
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Remember that if the pressure is too high with zero flow, passive reducing valves won't reduce, and pressure relief valves will be open and spilling water 100% of the time.
If the static pressure is too high, you need a shutoff valve in series with a reducing valve. The shutoff opens only when you need enough water flow for the reducing valve to reduce the downstream pressure to an acceptable value.
If the high pressure is from your city feed, you may need a day tank in your house filled by the city and emptied by your consumption. An active pressure regulator would control the valve admitting city water.
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Unfortunately a pressure relief value (as shown in your link) would be unsuitable because the mains input pressure (say 6 bar) would always exceed the required house-pressure (say 3 bar). That would mean the pressure relief valve would always be relieving itself (ha-ha) and flooding my kitchen.Lnewqban said:
https://www.build.com/product/summa...ynXApxWnDAPhzmpOMfQaArnzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.dsI believe that this simpler solution would be more suitable in your case:
Unfortunately a pressure relief value (as shown in your link) would be unsuitable because the mains input pressure (say 6 bar) would always exceed the required house-pressure (say 3 bar). That would mean the pressure relief valve would always be relieving itself (ha-ha) and flooding my kitchen.Pressure reducing valves and pressure relief valves have different purposes.In any case, I can get a get a pressure reducing [edited] valve that does what I want - controlling both static and dynamic pressure (e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/reliance-valves-predator-pressure-reducing-valve-15mm-x-15mm/914hr ).But my question is: what is theof a pressure reducing valve that can only control dynamic pressure? It seems pointless.
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Thanks for the reply. However (as already noted in Post #4)anorlunda said:
Thanks for the reply. However (as already noted in Post #4)I can get a pressure reducing valve that does what I want - controlling both static and dynamic pressure.But what I really want to know is: what is theof a pressure reducing valve that can only control dynamic pressure? If damage is caused by high continuous static pressure, why do they even make pressure reducing valves that only control dynamic pressure?
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In applications where flow demand can greatly change, and abundant supply pressure and flow is available.Please, see:
anorlunda
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Like I said, they are useful in series combination with a shutoff valve. That valve you linked in #4 probably combines both shutoff and reducing functions in one unit.Steve4Physics said:
Like I said, they are useful in series combination with a shutoff valve. That valve you linked in #4 probably combines both shutoff and reducing functions in one unit.
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Thanks @Lnewqban and @anorlunda Here in the UK it seems we use pressure reducing valves (for dynamic pressure only) with no additional (pressure-sensitive) shut-off valve.And all the information I've read simply says PRVs are used to protect the plumbing from excessive (dynamic) pressure - but ignore the issue of static pressure. So I'm still puzzled.I'm going to one of the manufacturers and ask their technical department if they can explain. If I find out anything useful/interesting, I'll post it here.
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High static pressure over time should not cause leaks. Though pressure cycling can.Steve4Physics said:
High static pressure over time should not cause leaks. Though pressure cycling can.Primarily I would think the prv is there so that the system operates properly. The various devices on the system are designed for certain operating pressure and associated flow rate. It the operating pressure is too high, the flow can be too high or hard to control.
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My wife works in the home warranty business, and she encounters leaks and appliance failures pretty regularly that are attributed to high water pressure by the plumbers who diagnose the problems. If the pressure is high enough, the home warranty may not apply...
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The valve described in the first post, a PRV, is a Pressure Relief Valve.It is used (and required here in the USA) on hot water heaters. If the inlet valve to the water heater and all usage valves are closed and the heater comes on, the internal tank pressure can be high enough to burst the tank. Deadly if anyone is nearby. The PRV is installed on the hot water tank to relieve the over-pressure by directing the water to a drain.The device you are looking for is a Pressure Regulator, or often called a Pressure Regulator Valve. This valve CLOSES when the outlet pressure is greater than the set value. The type you mentioned in the first post OPENS with high pressure, opposite of what you need.Here is a link to one description of a Pressure Regulator:(above found with:Also see a manufacturers page at:Hope this helps!Cheers,Tom
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Thanks Tom. For information, in Post #1 I wasnt asking about pressure relief valves - which, as you described, are typically used for safety in pressurised water-heating (and also high-pressure steam) systems.Tom.G said:
Thanks Tom. For information, in Post #1 I wasnt asking about pressure relief valves - which, as you described, are typically used for safety in pressurised water-heating (and also high-pressure steam) systems.I should have made it clearer.I was referring to pressure reducing (regulator) valves.Part of the confusion may be that the same acronym, PRV, is used for both types of valve.
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This is a good idea as it means the only part of your system that's at a silly pressure will be a single valve at the tank input. It's no longer popular in UK but it was the norm for non-drinking water systems in the past - to protect a complicated hot water system from stress and to maintain a reliably constant pressure for simple shower systems. As for cold water, the only snag with an upstairs 'cold tank' to store water is hygiene and spiders. A separate feed for the kitchen, direct from the mains, would be normal.anorlunda said:
That type is ideal for constant head fuel systems in motor cars where excess fuel passes back to the tank. Seems to be standard these days.Tom.G said:
This is a good idea as it means the only part of your system that's at a silly pressure will be a single valve at the tank input. It's no longer popular in UK but it was the norm for non-drinking water systems in the past - to protect a complicated hot water system from stress and to maintain a reliably constant pressure for simple shower systems. As for cold water, the only snag with an upstairs 'cold tank' to store water is hygiene and spiders. A separate feed for the kitchen, direct from the mains, would be normal.The old fashioned arrangement used a slide valve, operated by a floating (brass) ball with a hard rubber pad over a (brass) orifice. Those used to last for a hundred years, sometimes needing a new rubber pad after twenty years or so. (Note the old fashioned, fail safe, syphon operation in the figure.)That type is ideal for constant head fuel systems in motor cars where excess fuel passes back to the tank. Seems to be standard these days.
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For information, I have no cold water tank. Mains (at high pressure) supplies cold water at all taps and the input to a 'combi' boiler. The combi boiler then supplies hot water to taps and also incorporates a completely separate water-circuit for central heating.sophiecentaur said:
For information, I have no cold water tank. Mains (at high pressure) supplies cold water at all taps and the input to a 'combi' boiler. The combi boiler then supplies hot water to taps and also incorporates a completely separate water-circuit for central heating.One consequence is that the (non-central-heating) plumbing is subject to the full mains supply pressure unless a pressure reducing valve is used.
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Houses are smaller. Roof spaces are smaller and you cant have a tank in a flat. So a system thats really quite elegant and low tech is just not used much.
Having your own tank would be great where supplies are uncertain or where gauge pressure can become negative.
Old can be good.
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Steve4Physics said:
Steve4Physics said:
I don't know where you are getting your information from, pressure reducing valves approved for domestic installation in the UK where they are required control both static and dynamic pressure. As you say there would be no point in only controlling dynamic pressure; they are most often required to prevent your hot water cylinder from overpressure. Typically (from memory) the cylinder will have a relief valve set at 7 bar and the incoming mains is regulated down to 3 bar.
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A quick Google turned up this image. Common setup in the USA.
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Hey, how did you do that? Clicking on the link takes me to the image plus shows links to the original website where Google Images found it. Neat!Averagesupernova said:
https://images.app.goo.gl/UVGHCNQ9ot8A5Xpn6A quick Google turned up this image. Common setup in the USA.
Hey, how did you do that? Clicking on the link takes me to the image plus shows links to the original website where Google Images found it. Neat!
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Do you know if pressure reducing valves in the USA are required to control static pressure, or dynamic pressure or both?Averagesupernova said:
https://images.app.goo.gl/UVGHCNQ9ot8A5Xpn6A quick Google turned up this image. Common setup in the USA.
Do you know if pressure reducing valves in the USA are required to control static pressure, or dynamic pressure or both?
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I'll post some screenshots that should explain it.Four screenshots. Android . You can see what I typed in. Hit the image you want, click the upper right circle with three dots, option comes up to share. Copied to clipboard, pasted into pf page. You click on the link.
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ThanksAveragesupernova said:
Thanks @Averagesupernova . But none of the images say if the valves are controlling static pressure, dynamic pressure or both.
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What the image is calling a pressure reducing valve caps the pressure at an amount that is determined by how far in the bolt with the locking nut is turned. If the valve works correctly the pressure will NEVER exceed the set point. Of course if there is a lot of demand, the valve will fall short and not allow enough flow to maintain pressure. But, many other things dictate this as well such as pipe size, length, etc. It is commonly known as a pressure regulator.Steve4Physics said:
Thanks @Averagesupernova . But none of the images say if the valves are controlling static pressure, dynamic pressure or both.
What the image is calling a pressure reducing valve caps the pressure at an amount that is determined by how far in the bolt with the locking nut is turned. If the valve works correctly the pressure will NEVER exceed the set point. Of course if there is a lot of demand, the valve will fall short and not allow enough flow to maintain pressure. But, many other things dictate this as well such as pipe size, length, etc. It is commonly known as a pressure regulator.
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For information, note that's only true for pressure reducing valves that control both static (non-flow) and dynamic (flow) pressures.Averagesupernova said:
For information, note that's only true for pressure reducing valves that controlstatic (non-flow) and dynamic (flow) pressures.Another type only controls dynamic (flow) pressure. So when the flow stops, the (now static) pressure rises to whatever the inlet pressure is.
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Apparently you haven't accepted the definition of a pressure regulator.
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Im simply using the terminology Ive read. For example:Averagesupernova said:
Many types of PRV achieve this role under both flow and no-flow conditions. Models that can do this are known as static PRVs or drop-tight valves. They are designed to guard against gradual pressure creep when there is no demand on the outlet side (i.e. when the water is at rest, or static)
Models that only offer this function under flow conditions, and thus do not prevent pressure creep when there is no demand, are known as dynamic PRVs
Im simply using the terminology Ive read. For example:says:Im not too bothered by the name. My question was (and still is): what is the point of a dynamic PRV (or whatever other names are used) since it cant protect against high static pressure?
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My point is that if you are going to get hung up on words and names then maybe you need to examine the inner workings of such valves. We can imagine how a valve of a certain type may be used, and that could satisfy you, or maybe not if you can't imagine such an application. I also wonder if you realize how flow and pressure are closely related. I can stick an orifice in my cold water line on my washing machine because when I set the washer to warm it still is too cold for my taste. I can call it a static pressure reducing valve or a flow reducing valve. Either is correct and will accomplish what I want. Admittedly using an orifice and calling it a pressure reducing valve is taking a few liberties.Steve4Physics said:
My point is that if you are going to get hung up on words and names then maybe you need to examine the inner workings of such valves. We can imagine how a valve of a certain type may be used, and that could satisfy you, or maybe not if you can't imagine such an application. I also wonder if you realize how flow and pressure are closely related. I can stick an orifice in my cold water line on my washing machine because when I set the washer to warm it still is too cold for my taste. I can call it a static pressure reducing valve or a flow reducing valve. Either is correct and will accomplish what I want. Admittedly using an orifice and calling it a pressure reducing valve is taking a few liberties.BTW, this talk of static vs dynamic pressure reducing valves is confusing. If there is a formal definition, I would think that a dynamic anything would be more complex than static, so I have assumed in this thread that a static valve would be the equivalent of a flow reducer as implied above.
sandy stone
So, what the OP refers to as a "static pressure reducing valve" is what I would call a pressure regulator with positive shutoff - obviously what you want in a domestic water system when you are trying to protect a water heater when there is no water demand in the house. If the shutoff were not positive then of course with no demand, the pressure downstream of the valve would eventually rise to the supply pressure - as referenced in the quote in post #26.
Pressure regulators without guaranteed positive shutoff, "dynamic pressure reducing valves", are common in industry, where a continuous process requires a certain set pressure, and a period of no demand would be very unusual, i.e. a process shutdown.
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That is the wrong assumption. A flow reducer is a flow reducer, it does not regulate any fixed downstream pressure, and it is not a valve so it is not a pressure reducing valve at all.Averagesupernova said:
That is the wrong assumption. A flow reducer is a flow reducer, it does not regulate any fixed downstream pressure, and it is not a valve so it is not a pressure reducing valve at all.Dynamic pressure in a pipe is the pressure when a fluid is flowing in the pipe. A dynamic PRV attempts to maintain downstream pressure at a fixed value as the flow rate increases (but can only do this for a certain range of flow rates). Static pressure in a pipe is the pressure when no fluid is flowing in the pipe. A static PRV closes completely to maintain downstream pressure at a fixed value regardless of upstream pressure (but can only do this for a certain range of upstream pressures).In many industrial applications it is only necessary to control dynamic pressure but valves used in such situations will not close fully when flow stops and are called dynamic PRVs because they only regulate dynamic pressure. In a domestic installation PRVs are used to protect the domestic plumbing (and particularly unvented hot water vessels) from the utility supply pressure and so it is absolutely essential that the PRV regulates pressure whether there is flow (dynamic) or not (static) and they are therefore sometimes called static PRVs, although often the word static is omitted because these are the only PRVs that are manufactured for these installations.
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I'm not going to argue with youAveragesupernova said:
It should be obvious that in this thread I'm not too hung up on what stuff is called. At least in this thread. Otherwise I can certainly be a stickler on definitions. I thought the OP was confused enough that it warranted a suggestion on studying how these devices work. I was not convinced that the OP fully understood how flow and pressure are related.I'm not going to argue with you @pbuk since you what you have said is correct. The word valve certainly does imply that it has adjustable properties and obviously an orifice has no adjustable properties. And yes, I admit my useage of static and dynamic are reversed in this case. I won't edit my posts. It would simply cause more confusion.
A pressure reducing valve is a type of valve that is used to control and reduce the pressure of a fluid or gas in a system. It works by automatically adjusting the flow of the fluid or gas to maintain a consistent and safe pressure level.
A pressure reducing valve works by using a diaphragm or piston mechanism to sense the pressure of the fluid or gas and adjust the valve opening accordingly. When the pressure reaches a certain level, the valve will close to reduce the flow, and when the pressure drops, the valve will open to allow more flow.
The main benefit of using a pressure reducing valve is that it helps to maintain a safe and consistent pressure level in a system. This can prevent damage to equipment, reduce the risk of leaks or ruptures, and improve the overall efficiency of the system.
Pressure reducing valves are commonly used in a variety of industries, including water supply and distribution, oil and gas, chemical processing, and HVAC systems. They can also be found in residential and commercial buildings to regulate water pressure.
When choosing a pressure reducing valve, it is important to consider factors such as the type of fluid or gas being controlled, the desired pressure range, and the flow rate. It is also important to select a valve that is compatible with the material and conditions of your system. Consult with a professional or refer to manufacturer specifications for guidance in selecting the right valve for your specific application.
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