What order do you adjust valves?

The simplest way to adjust a hydraulic or solid lifter camshaft, whether it is a flat tappet or roller cam, is described below. However, the FIRST step is to forget all the old information we have collected from other individuals, magazines, shop manuals, and most instructions sheets have taught us in the past.

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Interpreting the information below incorrectly, or trying to merge the steps presented with old knowledge is a recipe for destruction, and could create more trouble and confusion than necessary. Next, consider  those things that can affect the engine&#;s valve lash, because it is important to understand the basic definitions, terminology, and functions before we can officially begin.

 

Before adjusting the valves on the engine, other possible issues and considerations must be addressed. Simply putting a wrench on something and attempting to follow the cam card, shop manual, or advice of some friend or relative is not enough. The basics of how the valvetrain works is where we begin&#;and only after answering a few important questions.

 

What type of camshaft is in the engine? (Hydraulic, Solid, Hydraulic Roller, Solid Roller, Mushroom Tappet)

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• Does the engine use steel (cast iron) or aluminum cylinder heads?
• Are the correct valvetrain components installed on the application? (Proper valve stem and pushrod length, correct lifters, correct rocker arms and retention)
• Are ALL of the valvetrain components in proper working condition?
• Are the valve springs the correct size and tension for the camshaft and intended use (operating RPM)?
• What type of driving (or racing) will this engine experience? (Daily driver, street/strip, racing, type of racing)
• Are the proper tools available, and do we possess the basic knowledge required to perform this task?

The last one above is quite important. If after reading through this information and you find that you are still a bit confused, please ask for help or have someone else do it. In the very least you can have someone who is more knowledgeable walk you through the process we describe here to make sure you understand the procedure. If you are wondering what can go wrong, here is a short list that describes a few troubling results.

• Poor running engine and low performance
• Failed smog test (if this is an emission-controlled, street driven vehicle)
• Burnt exhaust valve(s)
• Broken valvetrain components (springs, pushrods, lifters, camshaft)
• Limited or reduced lifespan of valvetrain components
• Excessive valve guide and valve seat wear
• Blown up engine
• Lose an important Race!
• Empty, or put a substantial dent in your bank account

The above list, though quite simple to understand, should scare us! It takes only a few thousandths of an inch (0.001&#;) of adjustment error to cause any one or more of the problems listed above.

adjusting valves in 350 sbc

never done it before but my buddy needs help getting his engine back together before the weekend, I found this sequence for adjusting the valves from a google search and I just want verify with you guys that this an acceptable method before I just dive into this thing. here is what the article says:

Here is the ONLY way I will adjust Chevy hydraulic lifters. Sure beats the hell out of doing it when the engine is running by a long shot. Bring the number one cylinder to TDC. You'll know that by the timing mark being on or near zero and if you stick a screwdriver in that spark plug hole the piston will be all the way up. Loosen the rocker arm stud on both valves and then tighten one up while slowly turning the pushrod with your fingertips. When the pushrod can't be turned then stop and adjust the nut down 1/4 to 1/3 turn more. Then do the other one on number one cylinder. Now here's why this is so easy...you can adjust more valves without turning the engine over while the motor is in the number one position. Here's the sequence...you can adjust the exhaust valves on cylinders 1,3,4, and 8. Then you can adjust the intake valves on 1,2,5, and 7. All done the same way by turning the pushrod...etc etc. Rotate the engine one full turn or 180 degrees coming back to the zero timing mark. Now number 6 cylinder is up in firing position. Adjusting the rest of the valves in this order....exhaust on 2,5,6, and 7...then the intake on 3,4,6,and 8. Once the valves are set like this just button the engine up and if you did it right they will not need touched again. I've done many, many small blocks this way and 4 and 6 bangers as well. Not once have I had to go back and do it again. Sure beats the hell out of doing it with the motor running spraying oil all over the engine bay.

I was also thinking that zero lash on the pushrods was up and down movement not rotational movement, which is the correct way to set the lash?

Last edited by 87MagnumII; 07-15- at

09:50 PM

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