Everything You Need To Know To Find The Best Ceramic Washers

Washers are essential when coupling parts using bolts and nuts. Here is the purpose of washers.

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Spacing and Alignment

Washers can be utilized as spacers. When we insert a threaded fastener into an object longer than its depth, the fastener protrudes from the rear of the object. For instance, when one tries to insert a 3-inch-deep fastener in a 2-inch-deep object, the 1-inch fastener sticks out the back of the object.

However, inserting a washer into the fastener before screwing it to the object helps prevent this protrusion. Therefore, it does this by creating padding, ensuring the fastener does not go too deep into the object. Also, washers compensate for slight variations in the spacing found between types of fasteners and parts, ensuring proper alignment.

Load Distribution

Washers assist in spreading the load more equally across a broader surface. The risk of material deformation, damage, or failure is decreased by washers because they disperse the force produced by a nut or bolt. For instance, driving a screw into a softer material could result in cracks appearing on its surface. However, with washers, there is minimal damage tendency.

Seal/Liquid Protection

Washers in this category stop water and other liquids from entering and exiting. Seal washes are frequently applied in water pipelines and connectors to make a waterproof seal. Liquid-sealing washers are constructed of a flexible material, and this material choice ensures they press completely against the object's surface.

Vibration Absorption

Vibration absorption is a feature of some washer types. Washers in this category are mainly not metals. Instead, softer materials like plastic, rubber, or urethane are used to create them. These softer materials are better at absorbing vibrations than harder elements like metal.

Additionally, vibration-dampening washers help protect coupled parts from damage. This is especially true when one of two objects connected by a threaded fastener vibrates violently.

Damage Prevention

The nut or bolt head and the surface it is fastened to are separated by washers, which serve as a protective barrier. This preserves the material's integrity and maintains the connected surfaces' visual appeal by preventing marring, scratches, dents, and other damages.

Corrosion Prevention

Washer fasteners, especially those made from corrosion-resistant materials, offer additional protection against corrosion and rust. This is crucial in locations where prolonged exposure to moisture, strong chemicals, or other elements can deteriorate the fastening system.

Manufacturers use types of washers for making and coupling parts. Below are different washers and their uses.

Plain Washers

Plain washers are the most popular kind. They disperse force and safeguard the item that the screw or nut is attached to. It also helps the screw or nut fit properly into a large hole. Plain washers in this category include:

Torque Washer

The principal uses for these washers are in the woodworking industry. When a nut is tightened, the outside prongs of the washers feature square holes that prevent the accompanying bolt from spinning.

Flat washer

Flat washers have a hole in the center and are flat or disc-shaped. They are ideal for small head screws because they spread the weight across a wider surface.

Fender washer

Fender washers are bigger and have a tiny hole in the center. They can spread out the load across a broader region. These washers are primarily used in sheet metal manufacturing, automotive fenders, and plumbing industries.

Finishing or countersunk washer

Countersunk washers in this category often create a flush finish upon securing with a flat-head countersunk screw. This ability to catch countersunk fasteners is due to its sunken top.

Shoulder washer

Shoulder washer fasteners in this category come in various materials, including PTFE, fiberglass, metal, phenolic, and nylon. These shoulder-like shaped washers often serve as insulators for screws and wires.

C-washer

A C-washer resembles a flat washer, but the primary difference is the hole cut from its center to form a C-shape. One primary advantage of this type of washer is that it is possible to adjust, remove or modify it without removing the fastener.

Spring Washers

For machinery that vibrates vigorously while operating, spring washers are ideal. They move with vibrations, thus preventing them from being loose or unfastened because of their axial flexibility, consequently increasing the joint's flexibility. There are different types of spring washers.

Belleville or Conical washer

These washers, often called conical spring washers, are employed to maintain tension during the assembly's thermal expansion and contraction. They can support large weights while deflecting only slightly.

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Dome spring washer

A dome washer is renowned for having a large load capacity with minimal deflection. They also absorb excessive vibrations and flatten the surface.

In addition, they have ground curves that create a load-bearing surface that is flatter. It can be used everywhere. A crescent spring washer would be useful, although flattening the surface is also necessary.

Wave spring washer

Wave spring washers are curved in two directions and are typically employed as cushions or spacers. They can support a moderate amount of weight and guard against excessive wear on the surface.

Finger spring washer

Made using carbon steel, finger spring steel washers comprise three curved flanges. They help lessen vibration, skidding wear, additional wear, dampening, and noise on rotating parts.

Carbon steel is commonly used to make finger spring washers. They blend the wave washer's predetermined load spots with the casing washer's flexibility.

Crescent spring washer

The crescent spring washer, also called curved spring washer, has a somewhat curved appearance that gives them a lighter pressure while maintaining flexibility. They have an extensive deflection range and can withstand extremely light loads.

These washers have linear load-deflection characteristics and offer uniform spring rates throughout the deflection range.

Lock Washers

Lock washers are designed to help prevent the screws and nuts from rotating toward their loosening position. Consequently, this preserves them even during intense vibrations produced by the machine or equipment's operation. In other words, they hold the fasteners that tend to loosen due to friction in place. The different types of lock washers include:

Split lock washer

The split lock washer, commonly called a helical washer, is used to secure fasteners. They are non-continuous rings bent inward and outward in opposing directions. When this fastener is used to secure the bent, both ends of the bent flatten out and dig into the mating surface.

External tooth lock washer

External tooth lock washers employ a teeth-structural action to keep the nut or screw head from coming undone. They function better with screws that have a larger head. The numerous teeth on their outer diameter bite into the surface to produce exceptional compression resistance, consequently ensuring they provide the highest level of torsional resistance.

Internal tooth lock washer

On the inside diameter of the internal tooth locker are many teeth that prevent the bolt or nut head from loosening. They serve to dampen noise and shock while locking shallow-head fasteners into position.

Specialized Washers

Specialized washers do not fall expressly into any of the above categories. Here is their information.

Keps nut

Also referred to as K-lock nuts, these washers with built-in washers facilitate spinning. The assembly functions more efficiently, thanks to the nuts.

Top hat washers

These washers are perfect to utilize while repairing or installing a tap because they are typically used in plumbing applications.

Keyed washers

Typically used between bolts to prevent them from spinning, these washers are placed keyed washers typically find application in the automotive industry. These washers have an internal tab that prevents the automobile shaft from rotating. They also find use in chassis parts and cylinder heads.

Insulating shoulder washer

Insulating shoulder washers are often made from nylon, peek, plastic, and other insulating materials. The best use for these washers is in the electrical sector, where they help isolate mounting screws from electrical current.

Gaskets

Gaskets, also known as O-rings, and made of rubber, come in different shapes and sizes depending on the purpose. It is a mechanical seal that fills the space between two or more surfaces in contact to prevent leaks and spills. In the automotive sector, their primary use is to slam shut oil and gas connectors and stop leaks.

Aside from rubber, gaskets can be made from light metals, such as aluminum, and other metals. These washers maintain a tight seal regardless of pressure and temperature, preventing gases and liquids from escaping.

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People will go either way with this. I have an 07 RXP with 88 hours...I beat the hell outta the thing for all 88 hours and my washers are still going strong. I have a SC rebuilt kit with metal washers waiting to be installed at the begin of riding season.

But I have also seen many other skis with less hours than mine that have had the washers go (some more than once)...so I am not sure what exactly makes it happen. I have used BRP mineral oil like recommended from the beginning and not had a problem.

If you are coming close to the 100hr mark and plan on rebuilding your SC then wait it out and buy one of the new rebuild kits that come with the metal washers. If your are nowhere near the 100hr mark I would have them replaced just for peace of mind. Actually it might be a good idea just to rebuild the SC right now with a new rebuild kit with the metal washers as it will only cost you about $150 more than just replacing the washers.

Matt

Kevin, you have two responses on both sides of the coin here.

Let me just throw something in there for you.
The ceramic washers on these skis are good as long as you never use synthetic oil in your ski. The problems all come about from the ceramic dissloving from the properties and additives of the synthetic oil. If your running the proper mineral oil and it has never seen synthetic, then like DCKD says, you shouldn't focus on them to much.:cheers:

:agree: with snipe but ive done alot of research on this and there seems to be more then one contributing factor to them breaking. Ive noticed that ruff water riders go through the ceramic washers more cause when the ski comes un hooked and rpms bank out it creats added stress on the washers. these two thing are the main reasons i think they fail. Now seadoo realized there was a problem and chaged the washers. At first i was told that all + model come with metal washers witch is not total ture there metal washers coated with the same ceramic's and ive read up on at least 10 X-modles that have blown the washers.

here a 4-tec oil pump after a ceramic washer failure Im not too sure that it has to do with hitting the rev limiter a bunch. Like I said in my above post....I have 88 hours of pure abuse on this thing. It's either WOT or nothing...jumping wakes and fooling around all day long....I would say I have hit the rev limiter thousands of times.

I don't think it only has to do with the oil though either. To tell you the truth I have no idea what causes it....I am just going to change them to metal when I get the rebuild done...and that is only because the current kits come with metal washers.

Matt

Im not too sure that it has to do with hitting the rev limiter a bunch. Like I said in my above post....I have 88 hours of pure abuse on this thing. It's either WOT or nothing...jumping wakes and fooling around all day long....I would say I have hit the rev limiter thousands of times.

I don't think it only has to do with the oil though either. To tell you the truth I have no idea what causes it....I am just going to change them to metal when I get the rebuild done...and that is only because the current kits come with metal washers.

Matt

Hey Matt, just curious, but if your ski aint broke and you do have the rebuild kit, why not wait til she goes?..by all means, I'm one to tweak on things/modify, just because, gives me something to do, but, mess with something of that nature, thats internal?, maybe I got wrong look at it...:cheers: Ceramic washers?

When you talk about the washers and juming the ski from the water, hitting high revs, well, this is what the washers purpose is. They are slip washers. When your running wot and you hit a wake and jump the ski out of the water, the engine runs off. Rev's on the supercharger hit 40k. When you land, the impeller making contact with the water again, creates drag force in that instant. To allow the supercharger some give, the slip washers allow the charger to slow down without an immediate change. It "slips" till it catches up (by slowing down) to the engines rpm. This minimizes the shaft torque on the charger to keep it from excessive force from twisting.

As for the oil being the sole cause for the demise of the washers? There could be more to it than that but what I wrote was from research I did on this issue when we first heard about it last year.

Like someone else has said, they are still ceramic coated. Ceramic is an awesome insulator for withstanding the heat associated with friction. Most major, high end engine components on things like the space shuttle, fighter aircraft and nuclear powered submarines use ceramic for just such a reason. But, for the use with our superchargers, there seems to be some type design flaw that has caused the ceramic to get a bad rap.

Maybe we will learn more about this as time goes by......:cheers:

Hey Matt, just curious, but if your ski aint broke and you do have the rebuild kit, why not wait til she goes?..by all means, I'm one to tweak on things/modify, just because, gives me something to do, but, mess with something of that nature, thats internal?, maybe I got wrong look at it...:cheers:

SC rebuild is scheduled every 100hrs so I figured since I am so hard on the machine and im at 88hrs I would get it done before summer hits. This way im good to go for the season without having to get the rebuild done when I hit 100hrs mid season. That's my reasoning....also if i didn't do it and the washer did go I would be pi*sed at myself for thinking about it and then not doing it. Words.....

I tend to think of it as the 7 words George Carlin said you can't say on T.V. :rofl:

It's not a big deal. But, to try and maintain decency in the forum, we try to think of it as, if you can't say it on t.v., then we don't want to say it here.

I would just prefer we used proper language but I'll be the first to say, I use language I wouldn't want most to hear, when I bang my knuckles on the side of the engine block while trying to remove a stubborn bolt.....:rofl::cheers:

SC rebuild is scheduled every 100hrs so I figured since I am so hard on the machine and im at 88hrs I would get it done before summer hits. This way im good to go for the season without having to get the rebuild done when I hit 100hrs mid season. That's my reasoning....also if i didn't do it and the washer did go I would be pi*sed at myself for thinking about it and then not doing it.

Got it...:cheers:
Knew I was missing something, I figured (no offense), it was something can be done on your own, (I dont know how these 4-strokes work). but, yah makes sense, get ski in shop now...etc, cuz, downtime s**ks...:cheers:

Got it...:cheers:
Knew I was missing something, I figured (no offense), it was something can be done on your own, (I dont know how these 4-strokes work). but, yah makes sense, get ski in shop now...etc, cuz, downtime s**ks...:cheers:

I think it is something that can be done on your own...but im still under warranty for another 2 years....gonna do the routine maint at the dealer as to not give them any ammo against me if something goes wrong. Once it is out of warranty I will attempt my own maint.

Matt

One of the mechanics at the local Seadoo shop told me to replace my washers with titanium washers just before my warranty period expires (in about 8 months time). I've got 47 hours up and do a lot of wave jumping, so I certainly plan to go away from ceramic.

Does anyone have any experience with titanium? Is this the same as the metal washers youall have been talking about?

DONT wait to change them your charger is a ticking time bomb.... Riva's washers are the most provin ones id go with them..... Thanks Sporsterjoel. Based on your advice, I looked at Riva's website and found a heavy duty washer kit RS-HDW-946 for $109, but call me stupid or blind, I couldn't find a description of what you get in the kit.

Are the washers titanium? And are you meant to replace them every 100 hours? If so, is it easy to do it yourself or should I get my Seadoo dealer to replace them for me? I've rebuilt plenty of car motors (especially when I was younger and had more time) so I have a reasonable mechanical aptitude.

Thanks Sporsterjoel. Based on your advice, I looked at Riva's website and found a heavy duty washer kit RS-HDW-946 for $109, but call me stupid or blind, I couldn't find a description of what you get in the kit.

Are the washers titanium? And are you meant to replace them every 100 hours? If so, is it easy to do it yourself or should I get my Seadoo dealer to replace them for me? I've rebuilt plenty of car motors (especially when I was younger and had more time) so I have a reasonable mechanical aptitude.

washer kit should only have the washer to replace the ceramic ones and rebuild isnt easy even your dealer many not know either he's just going togo buy the manual, PWC are big where you are and there alot of guy that will know how id look around maybe go to a race and talk to some of the pros and see if they recommend some one to rebuild your supercharge. These are really good motors and like all motors each one has their weakness, on this motor its the supercharger. Ive hear of so many people who have had a washer failure so i tell everyone you should puller the charger off every 25hrs and have a look and make sure everything is good. I would do a full rebuild every 100hrs. Best thing you can do is monitor your rpm's if they drops when your at WOT most likely you have a failure and you should stop useing it. Also if you can spin the SC impeller by hand then that also meas it failed. The ceramic washers can fail even if you only ever used mineral oil. The new kits from Sea-Doo are titanium coated. Do not use the titanium coated washers. The titanium flakes off. Use the all metal washers from Riva.

...but if your ski aint broke and you do have the rebuild kit, why not wait til she goes?...

This is a very bad idea. When they fail, not only will you have to repair the supercharger, you will have to pull the engine, take it apart, clean out the oil pan & lubrication system and replace both oil pumps. After I closed down my shop in , I worked for a Sea-Doo dealer for a year and we did several of these repairs.

Chester