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How To Grow And Care For Asian Pear Trees

Oct. 21, 2024

How To Grow And Care For Asian Pear Trees

Common Name Asian pear, apple pear, sand pear Botanical Name Pyrus pyrifolia Family Rosaceae Plant Type Deciduous tree, shrub Mature Size 10-30 ft. tall, 6-30 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Well-drained, fertile, adapts to clay Soil pH Mildly acidic, neutral (6.0-7.0) Bloom Time Spring Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 5-8 or 9 (USDA) Native Area Asia Toxicity Seeds are toxic to pets

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Asian Pear Tree Care

Asian pear trees need a sunny area in your yard with deep, well-drained soil. Some variants are self-pollinating, but you'll often see an increase in fruit production by planting multiple different types together. Keep in mind that a European pear cannot effectively pollinate an Asian pear if they bloom at opposite times. While fire blight is a concern for all pear trees, Asian pears are generally less prone to this disease than European varieties. If fire blight is an issue in your area, select disease-resistant varieties. Annual pruning is essential for optimal growth, good health, and a fruitful yield.

Optimal Light Conditions

Position your Asian pear tree in an area that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Before planting, ensure that larger trees or structures aren't likely to cast shadows on your tree. Dwarf varieties need at least 6 feet of space from other plants, while full-sized trees require 12 to 15 feet of spacing.

Soil Requirements

Asian pears thrive in rich, deep, well-drained loamy soil but can adapt to various soil types. Having your soil tested by a local extension service before planting will help confirm a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Should your soil be too alkaline, they can provide recommendations for amendments. If dealing with heavy clay, incorporate one-third peat or coco fiber to enhance drainage. Ensure your soil retains adequate fertility by administering annual fertilizer if necessary. Avoid planting in areas where water tends to accumulate.

To plant, dig a hole somewhat wider and deeper than the root ball. When dealing with bare-root dwarf trees, make sure the graft union is positioned 2 to 3 inches above ground for size maintenance. For standard-sized trees, the graft should be level with or slightly below the soil surface.

Watering Guidelines

Water generously when initially planting and during the establishment phase. Pear trees typically require around one inch of water weekly. Always check the soil moisture first; if the soil feels damp, watering isn't necessary. More mature trees need less frequent watering but should be given additional moisture during prolonged dry periods.

Environmental Conditions

Asian pear trees are hardy during winter in southern regions. For successful fruiting, they require a specified number of chill hours, meaning the total hours spent during winter with temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Hence, Asian pears cannot thrive in tropical climates. Certain varieties may bear fruit down to USDA zone 8, while others can fruit in zone 9. Selecting the appropriate variety for your specific zone is crucial.

Asian pear trees tend to bloom earlier in spring compared to European types, making them vulnerable to frost damage during unexpected temperature drops. Avoid planting these trees in low-lying areas where cold air might settle, creating frost pockets.

Fertilization Practices

Conduct soil testing prior to adding any fertilizer to provide your trees with the correct nutrient balance. In fertile soils, a layer of compost and mulch may suffice for nutrient supply. Nutrients may come from products like Ferti-lome Fruit, Citrus, and Pecan Tree Food. However, excessive nitrogen could lead to excessive leafy growth at the expense of flowering. Apply fertilizer in the early spring once each year.

Categories of Asian Pear Trees

Autumn is an ideal season for planting Asian pear trees. Look for them at your local nursery or purchase online from various reputable retailers. The size of your tree will vary depending on whether it’s grafted onto standard (at least 20 feet tall), semi-dwarf (12-15 feet tall), or dwarf (10 feet tall) rootstock, with many marketed as dwarf actually being semi-dwarf when you read the details. Below are several popular disease-resistant types suitable for southern climates:

  • 'Shinko': Brown medium-to-large fruit ripens from late July to mid-August, known for its high fire blight resistance
  • 'Korean Giant': Large brownish-olive green fruit can weigh up to a pound, ripens from late August into mid-to-late-September, notable for high fire blight resistance
  • 'Ya Li': A classic yellow-green variety that ripens in September, exhibiting moderate fire blight resistance, making it suitable for southern regions due to its lower chill requirement
  • 'Chojuro': Features golden-brown skin with a unique butterscotch flavor, ripens in August and shows some resistance to fire blight

Pruning Techniques

Depending on the rootstock, Asian pear trees can grow up to 30 feet tall. You can prune them in late winter with a light trim to maintain a manageable size. They also can be trained as espaliers against walls or onto wire trellises. Expect to prune your tree every year while it is dormant for good vigor and fruiting.

Start by eliminating any broken, diseased, weak, or closely angled branches. Using sharp, sterile clippers, make downward-sloped cuts approximately 1/4 inch from the trunk. It's typically better to allow a single central leader or upright stem to grow into the tree's trunk. Maintain at least 2 feet of vertical space between branches. Remember to favor branches tending to grow more horizontally.

If the tree produces heavily in one season, you can thin the fruit when it reaches the size of a nickel to a quarter. It's acceptable to keep them in clusters of two while spacing them 4 to 6 inches apart. Differing from European pears, the firm Asian pears should remain on the tree until they fully ripen before harvesting. Maturity is indicated by changes in color and the dropping of a few pears. They can last for three to four months when stored in the refrigerator's crisper.

Propagating Asian Pears

Asian pear trees are typically grafted onto the rootstock of another species, allowing for size control and improved disease and pest resistance. This method also helps manage the tree's cold resilience and ability to adapt to varying soil types. Hence, it’s advisable to purchase your Asian pear trees from professional growers.

Potting and Repotting Asian Pears

Dwarf Asian pear trees can be successfully grown in larger containers with adequate drainage holes. Choose a pot that measures at least 18 inches in width and slightly larger than the current container.

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Plant the tree level with the nursery pot. Utilize a potting mix tailored for fruit trees, or a premium mix augmented with compost. Prior to planting, loosen or cut any circling roots to avert girdling. Surround the tree with soil, concluding with a layer of mulch to maintain moisture. Young trees should be supported with stakes.

Potted trees necessitate more frequent watering and fertilization, particularly in summer. Repot the tree when it outgrows its container or approximately every three years. Note that potted trees are more vulnerable to frost in the winter. If situated in zones 5 or 6, protection during cold spells is vital.

Winterizing Your Asian Pears

During winter, Asian pear trees enter dormancy, which is the perfect time for pruning. To shield young trees from cold, wrap the trunk with protective material. Create a mulch layer around the base, ensuring it doesn't touch the trunk. Potted trees can be moved to sheltered areas like unheated garages during winter. Avoid placing them in heated conditions, as the tree needs to rest during dormancy.

Common Pests and Diseases Affecting Asian Pears

Fire blight is a prevalent concern for Asian pear trees. The bacteria can infect the tree during warm weather through various wounds, caused by factors like wind damage, hail, pruning, or insects. Symptoms could manifest as weeping cankers on bark, scorched leaves, and shriveled fruit, eventually leading to the tree's demise if it infiltrates the trunk.

For regions in the South, opting for fire-blight-resistant varieties is advisable. Infected trees should have diseased twigs and branches pruned back in late winter, ensuring cuts are at least 4-8 inches beyond affected areas. Sterilize tools using a bleach solution of 10% between cuts. It’s important not to use nitrogen-rich fertilizers or water the tree in spring, as new growth is highly susceptible to the bacteria.

Leaf spot may present as small purplish-brown spots on both leaves and fruit. Remove affected leaves and dispose of them in the trash, instead of the compost bin. Fungicides might not consistently provide relief; consult your local extension office for guidance if you're worried.

Pear trees generally encounter few significant insect problems that necessitate spraying. Pear slugs and larger pests like Japanese beetles can be manually removed, while the pear psylla, a small orange-brown insect feeding on sap, can lead to sooty mold. Insecticidal soap can be an effective control method. Aphids, found on the undersides of leaves, can be removed by directing a strong stream of water on them. Caterpillar infestations can be managed using Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis).

Guards and cages will help protect younger trees against deer and rodent damage.

Encouraging Asian Pears to Bloom

If your Asian pear tree fails to bloom, it could be due to insufficient sunlight or overall tree health. Late frosts can potentially kill flower buds, so adverse weather conditions may also play a role. To produce fruit, the tree must accumulate enough chill hours, and unseasonably mild winters can hinder blooming. Typically, Asian pear trees may require two to three years post-planting to start yielding fruit.

Regular pruning during the winter months aids in promoting blooming. Increase light exposure as necessary, and take appropriate actions to enhance the overall health of your tree if it appears unwell. Refrain from using high-nitrogen fertilizers unless soil tests confirm their necessity.

Common Issues Faced by Asian Pear Trees

Young Asian pear trees with thin bark can sometimes suffer from sunscald, where excessive sun exposure can cause the bark to crack, permitting diseases to infiltrate. To safeguard the trunk, encase it with white cloth or a tree guard.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Which trees promote cross-pollination with Asian pears?

    For optimal cross-pollination, Asian pear trees should be planted near other varieties of Asian pears. Self-fertile types will produce more fruit when near other Asian pears. If coinciding blooms occur, both European and Asian pear trees, like Bartlett and Chojuro, can cross-pollinate.

  • What is the lifespan of Asian pear trees?

    With proper care and favorable growing conditions, Asian pear trees can live for several decades, often producing fruit for over 50 years.

  • Are Asian pear trees considered invasive?

    No, Asian pear (Pyrus pyrifolia) is not classified as invasive. However, a related species known as the Bradford pear or Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana) can be invasive; it can be identified by its unpleasant-smelling flowers and small inedible fruits.

GROWING FRUIT TREES ASIAN PEARS

Asian pear trees generally grow too large to successfully grow in a container for more than a few years. Do not exclusively use soil from your garden in your pot; instead, use up to 1/3 native soil, 2/3 potting soil mix, and add a generous portion of fertilizer-free compost or well-rotted manure. For larger pots use a potting mix that has a larger particles in addition to smaller ones.

Care and Maintenance

Fruit Thinning

Asian pears are unusually fruitful plants. They mature early (usually starting blooming and producing fruit 1-2 years after planting), and they set LOTS of fruits! In fact, unless you aggressively thin the fruits, you will have hundreds of small pears that are mostly skin and seed.

After the traditional self-thinning event known as "June drop" - which usually occurs in early June and consists of the tree spontaneously releasing up to 10% of its fruit - you should go in and thin out 40%-50% of the remaining fruits. This seems excessive, but the remaining fruits will swell and develop into the good-sized pears you want them to be. In clusters of 1-3 fruits, thin to the best single fruit; in clusters of 4+ fruits, thin to the best 2.

DO NOT SKIP THIS TASK. If allowed to expend all of its energy ripening the fruit it has set, the young tree will exhaust itself and "runt out" - stay small, thin, poorly rooted, and die early. Asian pears need to be thinned to moderate the vigor we have bred into them. Thorough thinning will make better fruit and promote a healthy, well-rooted, long-lived addition to your home orchard.

WATERING YOUR PLANTS

This is the most important and often the most difficult part of successfully growing plants. There are many factors, including the humidity, temperature, soil type, wind, and amount of direct sun that affect how much and how often water should be applied.

A general rule of thumb for plants in the ground is to ensure they receive an inch of water per week over the root zone. An inch of water is equivalent to about ¾ to one gallon per square foot of soil surface area. The typical three-foot diameter planting hole would need 7 ½ to 10 gallons of water per week provided by rainfall or by the gardener.

Apply this water once a week, twice per week if soil is fast draining. This will of course depend on your own conditions and the plants you are growing! DO NOT water lightly each day because this results in a wet surface and dry root zone area. The soil should be moist, but not soggy, to a depth of about a foot for most growing plants. The top inch or two can feel dry, and the plant will still be well watered. The trick is to have the water available where the roots are. In hotter and sunnier areas, a mulch of wood chips, straw, bark, etc. can greatly ease the burden of summer watering. For plants in containers, water until the soil is saturated and water comes out of the drainage holes. Let the container dry until the soil is dry to the touch 1 to 2 inches down (more deep with deeper pots) and the container is lighter in weight. A plant that has wilted can be receiving either too much or too little water.

In rainy areas like the Pacific Northwest most of the plants that we offer will need relatively little supplemental irrigation ONCE THEY ARE WELL ESTABLISHED in the ground and have had a chance to develop a good root system. However, even here it is important to make sure plants have regular, deep watering during the first couple of growing seasons, and the first summer is especially critical. In drier areas, or where soils do not retain water well, permanent irrigation is essential. Remember that you don’t want your trees to just survive, but rather to thrive. Make sure they get the water where they need it, starting at the drip line and extending away from the tree up to several feet (for older trees) where the feeder roots will be. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be an efficient way to deliver the water.

Fertilization

For good steady growth and high productivity, your trees need to have adequate amounts of various mineral nutrients. Some people are fortunate and have naturally rich, fertile soil.

Use an all-purpose or balanced fertilizer. A couple of inches of well-rotted compost on the root zone can also be an effective fertilizer. A generous leaf or straw mulch around your trees will not only conserve moisture and help in weed control, but also keeps your soil healthy by building up humus, attracting earthworms, and supporting beneficial fungal organisms. This encourages young trees to be strong, healthy and productive. Avoid applying fertilizer after early summer; doing so can encourage lots of soft new growth that is much more likely to be damaged by winter cold. Excessive use of fertilizer can increase disease problems on your plants and can even kill them.

As a general guide, if your tree is producing about one foot of new growth or more a year and has healthy-looking foliage, it may not need much, or any, fertilizer.

Pest and Diseases

Find out what insects and diseases are typical in your area. Ask your local co-operative extension professional what the typical insect and disease issues are in your area. Then you can make selections based on resistance or tolerance information available on our website or make a plan for controlling problems you can expect with the susceptible varieties you prefer to grow. If you see resistance information about a particular disease for one variety but not another of the same kind of fruit, then that variety may be susceptible or might not have been tested - so its resistance could be unknown. The following are some of the more common issues.

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