How To Grow And Care For Asian Pear Trees

Common Name Asian pear, apple pear, sand pear Botanical Name Pyrus pyrifolia Family Rosaceae Plant Type Deciduous tree, shrub Mature Size 10-30 ft. tall, 6-30 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Well-drained, fertile, adapts to clay Soil pH Mildly acidic, neutral (6.0-7.0) Bloom Time Spring Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 5-8 or 9 (USDA) Native Area Asia Toxicity Seeds are toxic to pets

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Asian Pear Tree Care

Asian pear trees require a sunny location in your garden in deep, well-drained soil. A few varieties are self-fruiting, but even with those you'll get significantly more fruit if you plant two or more different selections. Don't expect a European pear to pollinate an Asian pear if they bloom at different times. Fire blight is a problem for all pears, though Asian pears tend to be less susceptible than their European cousins. Choose resistant selections if this is a problem in your area. Plan to prune your pear tree annually for vigorous growth, good health, and a bountiful harvest.

Light

Site your tree in a sunny spot with at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight. Consider whether large trees or buildings will block the sun before you plant your tree. Give dwarf trees at least 6 feet of space from other plants for good light and full-sized pears about 12 to 15 feet.

Soil

Asian pear trees prefer deep, well-drained, fertile, loamy soil, but can adapt to other soils. Have your soil tested with the local extension office before planting to ensure a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They will recommend the appropriate amendments if your soil is too alkaline. Heavy clay soils should be amended with one-third peat or coco fiber for drainage. Soils with poor fertility can be compensated for by fertilizing annually. Don't plant your tree where the soil is frequently wet.

To plant, dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the rootball, loosening the soil in the process. When planting bare-root dwarf trees, the graft union must be 2 to 3 inches above the soil line so that the tree will maintain its size. Standard-size trees can be planted with the graft union at or just below the soil line.

Water

Water well when first planting and while the tree is getting established. In general, pear trees do best with an inch of water a week. Check the soil first; if it's moist, the tree does not need water. Larger, more established trees require less watering but should be watered during dry spells.

Temperature and Humidity

Asian pears are winter-hardy throughout the South. In order to fruit, they require a certain number of chill hours, or total hours in winter when the temperature is below 45 degrees. For that reason, Asian pears cannot successfully be grown in a tropical climate. Some varieties will fruit as far south as zone 8, while others will fruit in zone 9. Choose a variety that is known for performing well in your zone.

Asian pears bloom earlier in spring than European pears, which means flower buds can be lost to a cold snap. Don't plant your tree at the bottom of a hill where cold air can drain and create a frost pocket.

Fertilizer

It's always best to have your soil tested before applying fertilizer so that you can provide the correct balance of nutrients. If you have fertile soil, a layer of compost and mulch could provide all the nutrients your tree needs. You can feed your pear trees with a fertilizer such as Ferti-lome Fruit, Citrus, and Pecan Tree Food, but in some cases this may add too much nitrogen to your soil, encouraging leafy green growth at the expense of flowers. Add fertilizer once a year in early spring.

Types Of Asian Pear Trees

Fall is a great time to plant Asian pears. Look for pear trees at your local nursery, or order online from Just Fruits and Exotics, Petals From the Past, and Stark Bros. The size of your pear tree will vary based on whether it is grafted to standard (at least 20 feet tall), semi-dwarf (12-15 feet tall), or dwarf (10 feet tall) rootstock. Many trees that are labeled as dwarf are actually semi-dwarf, so read the fine print. Here are a few popular disease-resistant varieties for growing in the South:

• 'Shinko': Brown, medium-to-large fruit ripens from late July to mid-August, high fire blight resistance
• 'Korean Giant': Brownish olive green fruit is large to very large, can weigh up to a pound, ripens from late August to mid- to late-September, high fire blight resistance
• 'Ya Li': Classic yellow-green pear color, ripens in September, moderate fire blight resistance, low chill requirement makes it a good option for farther south
• 'Chojuro': Golden-brown skin, notable for its butterscotch flavor, ripens in August, some fire blight resistance
  

Pruning

Depending on the rootstock, Asian pear trees can grow up to 30 feet tall. You can prune them in late winter with a light trim to keep them to a more manageable size. They also can be trained as espaliers against walls or onto wire trellises. Expect to prune your tree every year while it is dormant for good vigor and fruiting.

Start by removing broken, diseased, weak, and narrow-angled branches. Using sharp, sterile pruners, make downward-slanting cuts about 1/4 inch from the trunk. It's usually best to give pear trees one central leader or upright stem that is allowed to continue growing up and develop into a trunk. Make sure branches have at least 2 feet of vertical space between them. As you choose which branches to leave on the tree, favor those growing more horizontally than vertically.

If the tree is overburned from a heavy crop, you can thin the fruit when it's between the size of a nickel and a quarter. The pears can be left in clusters of two and spaced 4-6 inches apart. Unlike soft European pears, firm Asian ones should be left on the tree to ripen before picking. You'll know when the mature color develops and a few start to fall from the tree. Fruit can last three to four months if stored in the crisper of the refrigerator.

Propagating Asian Pears

Asian pear trees are grafted to the rootstock of another species to control the size of the tree and improve disease and pest resistance. Grafting also impacts the tree's cold hardiness and ability to tolerate various soil types. For these reasons, it's best to buy your Asian pear tree from a commercial grower.

Potting And Repotting Asian Pears

A dwarf tree can be grown in a large container with drainage holes. Look for a pot that is at least 18 inches wide and slightly wider than the tree's existing pot.

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Plant the tree at the same level as its nursery pot. Use a potting mix formulated for fruit trees, or a high-quality potting mix with some compost mixed. Loosen or cut any circling roots before planting to prevent girdling. Fill around the tree with soil, then add a layer of mulch to preserve moisture. Young trees should be staked.

Potted trees will need more frequent watering and fertilizing, especially in summer. Repot your tree once it has outgrown its container or about every three years. Potted trees also are more susceptible to frost damage in winter. If you live in Zone 5 or 6, the tree will need to be protected from cold temperatures.

Overwintering

Asian pear trees go dormant over the winter. This is the time to do any necessary pruning. Protect young trees from cold by wrapping the trunk with a tree wrap or tree guard. Add a layer of mulch at the base of the tree, being careful to not place it against the trunk. Potted trees can be carted to a more protected space like an unheated garage in winter. Don't bring the container into a heated space, as the tree needs to go dormant each year.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

Most Asian pear trees are at least somewhat susceptible to fire blight. Bacteria infect the tree during warm weather by entering through wounds on the tree. Entry points can be created by wind damage, hail, pruning, or insects. Symptoms include weeping from cankers in the bark, scorched-looking leaves and shoots, and dark and shriveled fruit. If the infection is in the trunk, the tree will eventually die.

In the South, choosing fire-blight-resistant varieties for your garden is the best course of action. Prune diseased twigs and branches of an infected tree in late winter, cutting 4-8 inches beyond affected areas. Sterilize pruning tools with a 10% bleach solution between each cut. In spring, don't use a high-nitrogen fertilizer or water the tree. This will reduce the amount of new growth, which is most susceptible to the bacteria.

Leaf spot can appear as small purplish-brown spots on leaves and fruit. Remove and dispose of them in the trash, not the compost pile. Fungicides are not always effective, so contact your local extension office for advice if you are concerned.

Pear trees don't usually have serious insect problems or require spraying. Pear slugs and other large insects like Japanese beetles can be picked off by hand and dropped in a can of soapy water. The pear psylla is an orangey-brown, winged, jumping insect that feeds on sap, leaving a residue that can cause sooty mold. Control with insecticidal soap. Soft-bodied aphids that collect on the underside of leaves can be sprayed off with a strong stream of water or controlled with insecticidal soap. Problematic caterpillar infestations can be sprayed with Bt.

Deer and rodents may want to nibble on the tree. Tree guards and cages can help prevent damage to the bark of young trees.

How To Get Asian Pears To Bloom

If your tree isn't blooming, sun exposure or the health of the tree could be the issue. A late frost can also kill flower buds, so weather may be the culprit. The tree must have adequate chill hours, and a mild winter could affect flowering. Asian pear trees can take two or three years to settle in after planting to produce the first harvest.

Annual pruning in winter helps to encourage blooms. Increase light exposure if needed, and take steps to improve your tree's health if it isn't thriving. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers in the future, unless soil testing indicates it is needed.

Common Problems With Asian Pears

The thin bark of young pear trees can sometimes be affected by sunscald. With very intense sun exposure, the bark can split, allowing diseases to enter. Wrapping the trunk of a young tree with white cloth or a white tree guard will protect it.

Frequently Asked Questions

• What trees are compatible for cross-pollination with Asian pears?

  Asian pear trees need to be planted near other varieties of Asian pears for cross-pollination. Self-fertile varieties will yield a larger crop if planted near other Asian pears. European and Asian pear trees, such as Bartlett and Chojuro, can cross-pollinate if they bloom at the same time.

• How long do Asian pear trees live?

  Asian pear trees can live for many years. They can live and produce fruit for 50 years or more with proper care and ideal growing conditions.

• Are Asian pear trees invasive?

  The Asian pear (Pyrus pyrifolia) is not considered invasive. A related Asian import known as the Bradford pear or Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana) can be invasive, but is distinguished by its foul-smelling flowers and small, inedible fruits.

Asian pear trees generally grow too large to successfully grow in a container for more than a few years. Do not exclusively use soil from your garden in your pot; instead, use up to 1/3 native soil, 2/3 potting soil mix, and add a generous portion of fertilizer-free compost or well-rotted manure. For larger pots use a potting mix that has a larger particles in addition to smaller ones.

Care and Maintenance

Fruit Thinning 

Asian pears are unusually fruitful plants. They mature early (usually starting blooming and producing fruit 1-2 years after planting), and they set LOTS of fruits! In fact, unless you aggressively thin the fruits, you will have hundreds of small pears that are mostly skin and seed. 

After the traditional self-thinning event known as "June drop" - which usually occurs in early June and consists of the tree spontaneously releasing up to 10% of its fruit - you should go in and thin out 40%-50% of the remaining fruits. This seems excessive, but the remaining fruits will swell and develop into the good-sized pears you want them to be. In clusters of 1-3 fruits, thin to the best single fruit; in clusters of 4+ fruits, thin to the best 2. 

 DO NOT SKIP THIS TASK. If allowed to expend all of its energy ripening the fruit it has set, the young tree will exhaust itself and "runt out" - stay small, thin, poorly rooted, and die early. Asian pears need to be thinned to moderate the vigor we have bred into them. Thorough thinning will make better fruit and promote a healthy, well-rooted, long-lived addition to your home orchard. 

WATERING YOUR PLANTS

This is the most important and often the most difficult part of successfully growing plants. There are many factors, including the humidity, temperature, soil type, wind, and amount of direct sun that affect how much and how often water should be applied.

A general rule of thumb for plants in the ground is to ensure they receive an inch of water per week over the root zone. An inch of water is equivalent to about ¾ to one gallon per square foot of soil surface area. The typical three foot diameter planting hole would need 7 ½ to 10 gallons of water per week provided by rainfall or by the gardener.

Apply this water once a week, two times per week if soil is fast draining. This will of course depend on your own conditions and the plants you are growing! DO NOT water lightly each day because this results in a wet surface and dry root zone area. The soil should be moist, but not soggy, to a depth of about a foot for most growing plants. The top inch or two can feel dry, and the plant will still be well watered. The trick is to have the water available where the roots are. In hotter and sunnier areas, a mulch of wood chips, straw, bark, etc. can greatly ease the burden of summer watering. For plants in containers, water until the soil is saturated and water comes out of the drainage holes. Let the container dry until the soil is dry to the touch 1 to 2 inches down (more deep with deeper pots) and the container is lighter in weight. A plant that has wilted can be receiving either too much or too little water.

In rainy areas like the Pacific Northwest most of the plants that we offer will need relatively little supplemental irrigation ONCE THEY ARE WELL ESTABLISHED in the ground and have had a chance to develop a good root system. However, even here it is important to make sure plants have regular, deep watering during the first couple of growing seasons, and the first summer is especially critical. In drier areas, or where soils do not retain water well, permanent irrigation is essential. Remember that you don&#;t want your trees to just survive, but rather to thrive. Make sure they get the water where they need it, starting at the drip line and extending away from the tree up to several feet ( for older trees) where the feeder roots will be. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be an efficient way to deliver the water.

Fertilization

For good steady growth and high productivity, your trees need to have adequate amounts of various mineral nutrients. Some people are fortunate and have naturally rich, fertile soil.

Use an all-purpose or balanced fertilizer. A couple of inches of well-rotted compost on the root zone can also be an effective fertilizer. A generous leaf or straw mulch around your trees will not only conserve moisture and help in weed control, but also keeps your soil healthy by building up humus, attracting earthworms, and supporting beneficial fungal organisms. This encourages young trees to be strong, healthy and productive. Avoid applying fertilizer after early summer; doing so can encourage lots of soft new growth that is much more likely to be damaged by winter cold. Excessive use of fertilizer can increase disease problems on your plants and can even kill them.

As a general guide, if your tree is producing about one foot of new growth or more a year and has healthy-looking foliage, it may not need much, or any, fertilizer.

Pest and Diseases

Find out what insects and diseases are typical in your area. Ask your local co-operative extension professional what the typical insect and disease issues are in your area. Then you can make selections based on resistance or tolerance information available on our website, or make a plan for controlling problems you can expect with the susceptible varieties you prefer to grow. If you see resistance information about a particular disease for one variety but not another of the same kind of fruit, then that variety may be susceptible or might not have been tested - so its resistance could be unknown. The following are some of the more common issues.

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