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Everything you need to know for your first step into underwater photography or when you want to upgrade to the next level of equipment. The choices can be daunting, but don't be put off by the below image - you will definitely not need as much.

This blog post aims to help divers looking to build their own underwater camera kit for photography. The information is intended to help those who are looking to get their first kit as well as photographers wanting to upgrade. The recommendations here are focused on photography rather than video. Please be advised that these are my personal recommendations, other professionals might suggest something else.

If you prefer a more visual approach, please watch this video.

Sections covered below

1. Cameras & lenses
2. Housings
3. Strobes
4. Accessories

Camera

First decision is the camera. Big decisions to make between compact, mirrorless and DSLR, as well as full frame. A typical question I might get is "I have this 5-year-old Korean DSLR that my grandfather gave me, can I take this underwater?" The answer is rather not.

Let's start with a couple of must-read recommendations:

• If you are new to photography, start with a compact
• Stick with cameras that have track record underwater (read reviews)
• Don’t buy a new (and expensive) housing for an old camera (not older than 2-3 years)
• Look what your friends use – always great to learn and support each other
• Do not buy second-hand compact or mirrorless cameras, DSLR is OK.

Compacts

For new photographers and for those who want to keep things simple as well as divers who want to be able to do macro and wide-angle in the same dive – I strongly recommend getting an upscale compact camera. Even for above-water pro photographers I generally recommend starting with a compact, as managing a system camera rig underwater is quite challenging. Modern compacts are powerful cameras in terms of video, photo, RAWs, and even dynamic range (ability to correct in post).

The cameras that I recommend are Sony RX100 (currently mark 7) or Canon G7x (currently mark III) as these are powerful cameras above and below that have great photo and video capabilities and have stood the test of many underwater dives. If it is hard to decide you can either decide by price or by intended use – the Sony RX is a bit stronger when it comes to video, while Canon is a bit ahead in terms of macro.

Note: If video is not too important you can save yourself quite some hassle by getting Sony RX100 mkV as this one does not require a short port (see more below).

There are plenty of other compact cameras out there, but remember to only buy a camera that has already been widely used underwater. In the past, several highly anticipated cameras surprisingly didn't deliver underwater such as the Canon G1x or Nikon J series.

What about Olympus Tough TG-6?

This is probably the most common camera underwater and it is, of course, very appealing – it is cheap, waterproof (and in a housing double safe), and impresses with its macro capabilities. The latest model even has 4k video that is really striking. If your budget is constrained or you rarely ever shoot wide-angle, it is a good set up. My beef with TG is that the wide-angle is poor and manual mode is very limited. Also, the dynamic range – the range of options in post-processing – is narrow. In my opinion, the camera is limiting your ability to learn more and develop your abilities in manual mode, but for macro only it’s a great starter kit.

Hey, I have a GoPro!!

That is great but that is not a photo camera. It is a very reasonable video camera but the photos are basically still frames of a video camera. There is no RAW photo to edit and you cannot link it to strobes. While I have several GoPros and they come on every trip, I will only take them to cover the situation in video and never as a still camera.

Mirrorless

The big revolution in the underwater space has been the emergence of so-called micro-four-thirds cameras. Lenses can be exchanged like on the larger DSLRs, but they are lighter, smaller and mostly cheaper than their larger predecessors and have therefore taken the underwater market by storm. A huge advantage is the image review in the viewfinder, allowing you to keep shooting without moving the camera - very useful in macro.

The most popular brand here is Olympus with OM-D EM-1 and EM-5 (lower cost) cameras, which both deliver amazing results. For stills and especially macro these cameras are the bomb. A little limitation versus bigger cameras is the focus speeds – for shooting larger and faster animals these cameras often lag a bit. If you have a squeeze on the budget I would say EM-5 is the best value for money out there.

Mirrorless Full Frame

The focus speed limitations have all but been eradicated by the entrance of mirrorless full-frame cameras – namely Sony Alpha A7 series which comes in various different iterations like the Sony A7 III as the base model, the Sony A7R IV for super high-resolution, and Sony A7S III for video (R for resolution, S for video). Since the mark III level these cameras now have focus speeds and dynamic range to rival full-frame DSLRs, but also in price point.

When trying to decide between Micro 4/3 and FF the main argument will be the price. If you are considering shooting professional photography, wide-angle photography, or something like sharks and manta rays – I would go FF. Also, for videography, the full-frame mirrorless cameras are unbeatable.

DSLR

So why are some people, including yours truthfully, still shooting with bulky DSLRs? Mostly because the FF mirrorless cameras only recently have become comparable in focus speed. As a wide-angle photographer, focus speed is super important for me – and my Nikon D850 is still the fastest camera out there. For sharks and mantas, I think I still have the best camera on hand. But Sony A7 and A9 as well as Canon R6 and others are very close now.

Another reason is price – any DSLR lenses are widely available second-hand and these babies last forever. So you can save a lot of money on those compared to the rather punchy cost of new FF mirrorless lenses. Finally, there are much more lenses available for DSLR – for example, there is no native fish-eye lens for Sony A7 or Canon R6.

Cropped vs Full Frame DSLR

There is again the same choice to make – FF or cropped. Generally, cropped sensors are lower in price and have less dynamic range. They are often better for macro because the crop sensor functions like a magnifier, so a 60mm macro lens is like a 90mm lens on a full frame. Also, I find that contrasts are better and the depth of field more forgiving on a crop sensor camera. Personally, I would choose a mirrorless camera over a DSLR crop for macro - the viewfinder showing the image is unbeatable and generally, they produce crisper macro shots as well as being smaller and therefore easier to handle when trying to get close to small things.

For wide-angle photography I would always opt for full frame if you can. If you are interested in video better chose mirrorless, DSLRs are not great in terms of focus, stability, and features.

Nikon vs Canon

I get this asked a lot and it's difficult. Currently, the best and fastest DSLR is Nikon D850 but Canon is due to announce a new 5D. Also, I would consider what your friends are using, so you can borrow lenses of each other.

Summary

If you want to keep it simple, or if you are new to photography for a compact. If you are ready to enter system cameras but are not a professional, go for mirrorless. Also, when macro is your main interest opt for Olympus. For professional photos, you can choose mirrorless FF or DSLR, but for fast-moving subjects, I would lean slightly towards DSLR FF.

Lenses

Now that you have a system camera you will want to have a choice of lenses. Underwater you want to have either a wide or a macro lens but then there are nuances and variations. Generally, there are four categories to have - each one with its own advantages and usages.

Here are my suggestions depending on how far you are willing to go.

Two lens approach - ok for beginners

• Fish-Eye
• 60mm macro or similar

Three lens approach (recommended) - necessary kit long term

• Fish-eye
• Wide-angle zoom
• 60mm macro or similar

Note: For DSLR crop cameras you can choose the Tokina 10-17mm which is a combination of fish-eye and zoom. Unique and possibly one of the best lenses for underwater. Does not work with full frame.

Four lens approach - including super macro

• Fish-eye
• Wide-angle zoom
• 60mm macro or similar
• 100mm macro or similar

Note: a 60mm macro on a crop sensor corresponds to a 90mm macro on full frame. So don't get a 100mm for a crop camera or it will be super-nano tiny macro only.

Housings

Before you ask, a couple of thoughts first:

- Decide on the camera first, then the housing

- Don’t buy a new (and expensive) housing for an old camera

- Don’t buy a second-hand housing. But if you do – send it for servicing first.

- Don’t buy a cheap housing for an expensive camera

- If the big brands don’t offer a housing for a certain camera, there is a reason.

- Only house compacts in plastic, system cameras belong in aluminum

Housing material

There are three types of housings – polycarbonate (plastic), acrylic and aluminum. The decision between the three mostly is driven by price. An important decision is how much the housing will be used, the more use it will get the sturdier it should be. If you plan to use the camera for a few years before upgrading then plastic housings are okay. For longer usage and for all system cameras, I recommend aluminum.

Polycarbonate aka Plastic Housings

These housings are the most plentiful and cheapest in the market. While they offer the cheapest entry to this space, it has to be noted that they have to be handled with more care than aluminum. One drop from the table or a bump with a tank can create a catastrophic flood on the next dive. Having said that, I know many people that never had a leak.

Canon, Sony, and other camera brands offer entry-level housings for their cameras. These are often okay as a starting point, although some don’t give access to all controls. But, they are usually not very sturdy and lack the ability to add accessories such as diopters and wet lenses and focus lights.

In this space, I recommend FantaSea as a solid brand that offers all important features in a plastic housing. The front features a metal plate with a 67mm screw mount allowing the installation of all desired wet lenses. Double o-rings and Vacuum valves help to make it as secure as possible housing.

Olympus original housings are made by the same factory and are therefore of similar quality, although FantaSea has smarter solutions.

Generally, polycarbonates are fine for compacts but I would refrain from housing a system camera with anything else but aluminum. Once there are ports for the different lenses, the leakage and breakage potential increase also because the cameras are heavier. And same as the old insurance logic “The more you spend on the device, the more you should spend on the insurance.” Meaning the housing.

Note: Sea Frogs has been coming back so many times with small or catastrophic leaks – I do not recommend this brand.

Acrylic Housings

There are only two brands offering this solution Ikelite and Nimar, and before Fantasea came onto the market they were a good intermediate product between cheap plastic and expensive aluminum. However, now their limitations seem unnecessary. My main problem is the clunky dials, that require taking the index finger off the trigger to make adjustments, potentially losing the shot in the process. They are also excessively heavy and the lid-snaps are true finger killers.

Aluminum Housings

Almost all professionals use aluminum housings. They are carved out of a solid aluminum block, powder-coated and anodized - they last forever and are virtually indestructible. Also, there is never any condensation and controls are usually more accurate than on plastic housings. They are heavier which you will notice when you are traveling, they require more buoyancy compensation and they are usually twice the price of acrylic housings.

Nauticam vs Isotta

Nauticam is the world market leader in aluminum housings. When this brand entered the housing market around 2009 the air got real thin for established players like Seacam, Subal, Aquatica, and Sea&Sea. Today they are still selling at similar price points but with much fewer features. Nauticam is the only manufacturer that has a real factory, while all others are workshops. This allows the Chinese producer to be fast to market and provide excellent mechanical solutions that nobody else has. The brand also makes more housings and accessories than any other brand. The only downside is the price and the complexity of their housings. The artful solutions are amazing until they have a problem in which case they will always have to go back to the factory which is time and money intensive.

Personally I have been using Isotta for 6 years and never looked back. Isotta is constructed in a simpler way than Nauticam, allowing it to be maintained and even partially serviced by a crafty photographer. This simplicity has an impact on the price, and the housings are a good 25% cheaper than Nauticam, Subal, and the others. Other advantages are double o-rings on all parts which have kept my camera safe and secure without the need for a vacuum seal.

Building your rig

If you are ordering a complete new set you can add some features.

First you will have to go through the steps of building your housing which will include the ports and domes for your lenses. There is no short-cutting, every lens has an exact set of port rings and covers. Different wide-angle lenses will be suggested with different domes - although unless you are a connoisseur you will be fine with a 6" dome. I generally suggest glass which is less likely to scratch.

For zoom lenses, you need focus rings that allow you to zoom. There are also rings for manual focus, but I find them not very useful underwater.

Every manufacturer has port charts easily accessible on the website. Some pages like Backscatter let you build your system easily.

Other useful accessories are sync cord bulkheads for system cameras. If you are shooting with optical cables also want to consider getting an LED trigger. Make sure you order several ball joints aside from your strobe ball joints for focus light and GoPro mounts. And personally, I really like cross brackets for mounting more lights but also for the best way to hold a camera inside and outside the water and when passing it out of the water.

Viewfinder

Another useful item to install when you can afford it is an angled view-finder. Some brands like Nauticam and Seacam have their own, Isotta uses the trustworthy INON X-2 viewfinder which is also very good value for money.

These are extremely helpful when shooting macro as the housing should be level with the animal which in this case mostly is close to the ground. The viewfinder allows the photographer to hover over the ground and look comfortably through the viewfinder. They also magnify the subject a little bit making framing and focusing a lot easier. I would refrain from using the viewfinder on blackwater dives or wide-angle dives as it is much harder