Seed Starting: a Comparative Study on Cheap Indoor ...

Introduction: Seed Starting: a Comparative Study on Cheap Indoor Methods

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In this instructable, I will offer instructions for making, and discuss the pros and cons of, 5 cheap methods of starting seeds indoors:

(1) Egg cartons
(2) Toilet paper tubes
(3) Milk cartons
(4) Yogurt cups
(5) Peat pots and coco fiber pots

The seeds that I start using these methods include peas (climbers, like other legumes), tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants (nightshades), corn, basil, thyme, parsley, and marigolds.  Since I live in an area where we can get snow into mid-May, it's important for me to have healthy, well-started seedlings by the time we're frost free so that my plants have enough time to mature and produce veggies.

Step 1: What You Need

Take a look at the various starters I've used and decide which ones best suit your needs.  In addition, you will need:

- seed starter mix: it's not that expensive, and superior to potting soil because it's fine and uniform.
- water: I never use plain tap water, because it's chlorinated.  At the very least, I run it through my Brita.  If you have distilled water, that's the best for watering plants.
- something to mix your dirt and water in (I used the bottom half of a gallon jug)
- a latex glove: optional, but dirt dries your skin out and I don't like that, so I wear a glove on my dirt hand.
- seeds.  I like heirloom seeds and buy them from Tomato Bob's website, where they have varieties on sale for twenty-five cents at times.  But the local hardware store or gardening store sells seeds too, and there ain't no shame in that.

That's it.  Do this outside on a mild day, or be prepared to clean up dirt inside.

Step 2: Egg Cartons

Pros: cool and convenient
Cons: too small
Best for: basil

While it's fun to use egg cartons as seed starters, they are at the bottom of my list for effective options.  Why?  Because the egg-shaped spaces are just too darn small.  However, if you want to give them a try, here's what I've learned.

First, cut the carton in half (separating the bottom from the top).

Prep your starter mix by mixing it with water in your vessel of choice.  It should be good and wet.  The texture and color visibly change as it absorbs water; you want it to be about as wet as it can be without having water sitting in the bottom of the bowl.

Fill the egg cups up as much as you can.  Put your seeds on top.  Add more mix.

Line the top of the carton with plastic (I use produce bags from the grocery store).  Put the top half into the bottom half.  This not only stabilizes the whole apparatus, since the cardboard egg carton gets awfully flexible when it's wet, but also keeps moisture in - that cardboard, if exposed to air, wicks moisture away like you wouldn't believe and sucks the life out of your seedlings in just a day.  The plastic lining is essential.

The second photo shows basil growing in pots and in an egg carton.  The potted basil was planted in those pots and is at least a month older than the sprouts.  I intend to keep it indoors in those pots.  But I also want basil to plant in my garden, and that's why I planted more in the egg carton - so I have plenty of sprouts to put in the ground with my tomatoes.  I had basil - notoriously easy to grow - sprout at 100% in the egg carton.  I also have bell peppers sprouting well, but in my third carton, with a mix of eggplant and sweet Italian peppers, I have about 30% no-shows.  I also suspect the size of the egg cavities limit the growth of my seedlings.

Step 3: Toilet Paper Tubes

Pros: compact and easy to transplant
Cons: molds easily
Best for: tomatoes

The toilet paper tube is a step up from the egg carton.  The first step here is to cut these babies in half, because the full length tube is pretty much guaranteed to develop nasty black mold on the bottom, where moisture collects and can't be reached by little baby plant roots.  Gross, and hungry mold risks overpowering and killing your seedlings.

Half-length tubes, however, work pretty well.  You can see in the photos how much cleaner they are than the tall ones.  You'll need a tray to arrange them in.  If you don't want to shell out five bucks for an alleged "seed starter tray," build something yourself - I used the bottom of a paper grocery bag, stabilized with a Netflix ad I got in the mail, and lined with a plastic grocery bag.

Prep your mix as for egg cartons.  Pack it firmly into the tube with the bottom opening blocked by something (like the table, or the bottom of the mix bowl).  Fill most of the way.  You can fill a little more loosely closer to the top.  Put your seeds on top.  Add more mix.  Arrange in your tray.

TP tubes are not good for anything with big, aggressive roots - like corn or peas.  Those roots will grow right out of the bottom and run rampant in your tray, and you will have to transplant within just a few days (see photo #4).  Tomatoes, however, have little bitty roots that don't stray from their mix, and they seem to like TP tubes quite a bit.  Of the tomatoes in my TP and 2" mini peat pot tray, I had a much better result from seeds planted in the TP tubes.

When you want to transplant from the TP tube into something bigger, here's my preferred method:
(1) Fill your desired vessel halfway with damp potting soil.
(2) Place the tube on top, then fill the space around the tube with soil.
(3) Remove the tube by pushing down gently on the seed mix around your seedling with one hand, and pulling up on the tube with the other.  Go slow.
(4) Add more soil after you've removed the tube.  Water.

I don't like to leave the tube in for two reasons: first, I don't want my plants to have to wait for it to decompose before they can stretch their roots out.  Second, there's usually at least a little bit of moldy fuzz starting to develop at the bottom of the tube, and I want that out of the picture.  It's not difficult to remove the tube.  Just be gentle.

Step 4: Milk Cartons

Pros: tomatoes' first choice award
Cons: no separation of seedlings
Best for: tomatoes

Okay, this was a half-assed thing that I tried, and I couldn't believe how well it worked.  I cut a milk carton in half (the long way), filled it about an inch with prepped mix, laid down my tomato seeds, and covered with more mix.

I had 100% germination and the seedlings from the milk carton were the biggest, fastest, best-developed tomatoes of all.  I thought they would be a nightmare to transplant because they were all growing together and I imagined a major root entanglement, but this was not the case.  The tomatoes came apart easily, I transplanted them into 3" and 4" coco fiber pots, and they are doing great.

I don't know why it works so well, but it does.  The second photo shows the milk carton tomatoes transplanted into pots, next to the TP tube and mini-peat tomatoes - they were all planted at the same time.

When you transplant tomatoes, cover the cotyledon leaves (the first leaves, the generic-looking ones) with soil.  I've heard it's good to cover them up to the second set of true leaves, but I transplanted mine before they were that big.  They'll grow roots from the covered part of the stem, and be sturdier plants.

Step 5: Yogurt Cups

Pros: easy, easy, easy
Cons: yogurt is more expensive than eggs or milk
Best for: pretty much everything

Yogurt cups make great seed starters.  They are a good size, they don't rot, and the soft plastic makes it easy to slide your babies out with their roots intact when it's time to transplant.  I love these things.  I don't even poke holes in the bottom (careful not to overwater!).  They hold moisture like pros and everything I've planted in yogurt cups has grown well.

I've put zucchini, peppers, parsley, and marigolds in them.  Procedure: prep mix, fill, plant, and cover.
The first picture shoes marigolds up top and bell peppers on the bottom.  The second photo also shows a huge zucchini sprout (which is only a few days old, while everything else is at least two weeks old) and some parsley as well.

Step 6: Peat and Coco Pots

Pros: roomy, no removal necessary for transplanting
Cons: $$
Best for: big seedlings - legumes, corn

Okay, these are the only starter pots that you actually have to purchase as such, but they are worth it in some cases.

This may seem obvious, but if you plant a big seed, you can expect a big seedling.  In that case, forget about egg cartons and TP tubes.  For huge seeds like peas, beans, corn, and zucchini, go straight to a 4" or 5" peat or coco pot.  Otherwise you'll have to transplant them right away, and a lot of these guys don't like that.  I had at least one healthy pea shoot die on me after transplanting to a larger pot.  So skip that and start big.

I've also used coco pots to step up my tomato seedlings, particularly the ones from the milk carton (second photo).  Everything that needs to be transplanted from its original starter pot will go into one of these, because they've only got another two weeks indoors before they start the transition to the outside.

I'm now planting my peas and corn together.  Why?  Because corn is tall and thin and likes lots of nitrogen, and peas climb and deposit nitrogen in the soil as they grow.  Beans do, as well (it's a legume family trait).  It's a match made in Native American farming techniques heaven.

Prep your mix.  I fill the bottom third or half of the pot with potting soil, and then put seed starter mix on top of that.  Put your seeds on top.  Big seeds tend to prefer to be buried deeper, an inch or so - refer to your packet.  Put mix on top.

A note: I can't recommend the 2" mini peat pots, because they were outperformed in sprouting tomato seedlings by both of the other container types I used with tomatoes.  I conclude that the large ones are useful for large seeds, but for small seeds, other options are preferable.

Step 7: Tips

Here are some things I've learned.

"Thinning" is a heartbreaking experience.  The first seeds I planted were herbs in a pot.  I planted lots of seeds and had to throw most of my seedlings out as they grew.  I now plant seeds individually, one per container (or a couple in a pot, spaced appropriately), and plan for them all to sprout.  If they don't, I can always plant a new seed.  But most seeds sprout.

Covering seedling trays with plastic is not something I do, because I don't have plastic wrap lying around.  I'm attentive to the soil moisture and haven't had any problems.  Seed starter mix holds water particularly well (one of the reasons it's worth buying), but do keep in mind that the smaller your container, the more often you'll need to water it.  The mix is also easily compacted by the impact of a stream of water.  I've found that the handiest way to water small containers without disturbing the soil is to make a SEEDLING WATERER as follows:

1 plastic water bottle with lid
something with which to poke a hole in the lid

Poke a hole in the lid.  Fill the bottle with water and put the lid on.  Squirt the water through the hole onto your seedling pot.  No soil disturbance!

I also don't keep my seeds in the dark before they've germinated.  I'm sure people who insist on doing that have a good reason to do so, but I try to keep things simple and so all my guys are on the same table by my south-facing window.  I figure they're under soil, so it's pretty dark down there, and they seem to be doing fine and germinating in the appropriate time frame.  I don't use grow lights - that would be way expensive - but I do turn my seedlings, sometimes more than once a day, and take them outside when the weather is good.

A note about parsley: parsley takes forever to germinate.  So long that, long after the other herbs I had planted the same day were sprouting their first and even second true leaves, I'd yet to see any action from the parsley.  I finally planted something else on top, but the very next day they sprouted, and they continued to sprout for a couple of weeks.  Some seeds just require a lot of patience, and it never hurts to look them up with Google to get some extra info - seed packets can be frustratingly brief.

Finally, keep track of your planting dates by writing them on your seedling pots (in ballpoint or something similar, which doesn't bleed on cardboard, and sharpie on yogurt cups).  You'll want this information for your own reference.  Also write down varieties, especially if you've got seedlings that look similar (all the nightshades look a like at first, and forget telling two kinds of tomatoes apart).  You can never have too much data.

I hope you've enjoyed my instructable and feel inspired to start your own seeds for cheap.  I'm entering the gardening contest, so if you liked it, please give me a good rating and vote for me.  Good luck!

Seed starting trays are one of the easiest ways to start vegetable, flower, and other plant seedlings indoors before the weather warms up. They come in a variety of sizes, with different features, and materials, but which ones are best?

Are some seed starting trays better then others and why? This is what I set out to find out this years growing season, in my quest to grow more of my own vegetables at home!

This post contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated if a purchase is made through the links provided. For more information please read our affiliate disclosure.

Are Seed Starting Trays Absolutly Necessary?

In past years, I never really used seed starting trays and always went with a collection of mixed solo cups, old flower pots , yogurt containers, egg cartons, basically whatever I could find and put soil in! While all these containers do work, and can be a great way to garden on a budget, I never really found that much success with my mix and match approach.

The main problem with this approach is that it simply makes things harder to manage. The various containers all require different amounts of water to stay moist, they take up way more space, and you have to move each seedling individually should you want to move them out, under grow lights or into a new window sill.

In short, are seed starter trays necessary for the beginner gardener? No, not exactly, but they sure do make life a whole lot easier, and dramatically improve your chances of success!

Why would we recommend using seed starting trays?

Seed starter trays make life a whole lot easier by conveniently grouping seedlings into easy to manage trays.

• It is much easier to provide adequate lighting when all the seedlings are grouped closely together instead of being spaced out in various size containers. The trays easily fit under grow lights, and can easily be moved around as a group.
• As the seed tray cells are all a uniform size, it is much easier to water, and stay on top of the moistures requirements of the various seedlings. As the seed trays all contain proper drainage, they also help prevent over watering the seedlings.
• It is much easier to plant similar types of plants in their own trays, for example herbs in one, lettuces in another, etc. This helps when needing to harden off or transplant certain seedlings before others.
• Some seed trays even come with clear plastic covers or domes, which help regulate moisture, especially in the beginning phases of germination and growth.

Different Seed Starting Tray Materials and Designs

Most often seed starting trays are made of rigid plastic and are reusable, or are made of super thin recyclable plastic that is meant to be thrown away after using. Some are a combo of plastic drip tray with bio-degradable cells or peat pellets that can later be planted right into the garden.

There are a wide range of designs to choose from, and it can be overwhelming, especially for new gardeners.

Which you'll end up choosing depends on several factors and we'll go over some of the most common designs in this guide to help you decide what will work best for you.

Seed Tray Sizes

Most seed starter trays come in a 10" x 20" size, but differ in the amount of 'cells' or individual plants that can be planted in the tray.

The more cells a tray has, the shorter the time frame before the seedlings out grow the tray and need to be planted out or transplanted into larger containers.

For more cheap seed starting traysinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

Tray sizes range from 12 cell trays - 128 cell trays! In my experience, tray sizes between 24 cells and 48 cells work best and will safely keep your plants indoors for 4 to 8 weeks before needing to be transplanted.

• Trays with a high number of cells (and thus a shorter growth time indoors) work especially well for lettuces such as spinach, kale, and head lettuces, which can be transplanted out into the garden sooner, either under hoop tunnels or in cold frames, then other plants.
• Trays with a smaller number of cells (for example 24 - 36 cells per tray) are ideal for plants such as tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers, herbs, and squashes.

Root vegetables, should when possible always be planted directly in the garden and not transplanted.

If you see roots coming out of the cells or peat pellet inserts, it's time to transplant the seedlings into a larger container or into the garden.

Bio-degradable inserts vs plastic cell trays

Which style of seed starter tray you choose is ultimately up to you.

Bio-degradable cell inserts are great, and make transplanting easy as the entire 'cell' is simply transplanted directly into a larger container or into the garden, and the tray material bio-degrades. They do need to be replaced yearly though and have a tendency to develop mold easier then plastic cell trays do.

Plastic seed starter trays are mostly re-usable, especially the more rigid plastic celled trays. The seedlings can be slightly harder to remove from the trays at transplanting time though, and you may need to use a butter knife, or spoon handle to help loosens the sides of the individual cells.

Never pull on the seedling stems to try and remove the cell from the tray as you will most probably damage the plant!

Additional accessories for your seed trays

Consider these accessories when starting and growing seedlings indoors. They make life a whole lot easier, and increase your chances of success! If you have to pick just one of them, I will always recommend grow lights be the first upgrade to your indoor seedlings!

• LED Grow Lights- specially designed lights to provide the proper amount of lights seedlings require to prevent growth issues.
• Heat Mats- help by keeping soil temperatures consistently warm, speeding up and aiding in germination rates.
• Base Trays- provide drainage for trays with drainage holes, and allow you to water your seedlings from below. Tis can help prevent disease and pest problems!
• Clear Dome Lid- Help keep heat and moisture in the seed tray. Especially important when waiting for seeds to germinate. A great and cheap investment when heat mats are not possible.

The Best Seed Starting Trays For Beginner Gardeners

In our quest to discover which seed trays work best for our vegetable garden needs, we purchased and trialed three of the most commonly available styles of seed starting trays. Biodegradable cell inserts on a plastic base tray, peat pellet inserts with a base tray, and a rigid plastic celled tray with a base for watering.

Jiffy Professional Greenhouse 72-Cell Starter kit

Review:

A great seed starting tray for beginners, just add water and the peat pellets expand. No need for extra potting soil, or filling pots. Seeds sprout quickly and the clear heat dome helps retain moisture, reducing the need to water as often. Downside to this size tray is the short growing time before the seedlings need to be moved to larger pots or transplanted into the garden. Plan accordingly. Perfect for lettuces or plants that can be transplanted within a week or two of germination.

Pros:

• Easy to plant peat pellets
• Comes with clear lid to retain moisture
• Comes with base tray for easy watering
• No need to purchase potting soil

Cons:

• Seedlings quickly outgrow the peat pellets
• pellets need to be replaced after each use

32 Cell Peat Pot Strips

Review:

Large peat pots provide enough space for plants to grow for 6 to 8 weeks. Perfect for tomatoes, peppers, cucumber, or squash seedlings. Base tray allows for easy watering, though care must be taken not to overwater to prevent mold growth. We found cutting the strips apart before planting made transplanting easier, with less disturbance to the plants. A great, easy to use tray for most plants.

Pros:

• Bio-degradable inserts make planting and transplanting easy
• Larger cell size allows for seedlings to stay indoors longer nd develop healthy root systems
• Comes with base tray for easy watering
• Allows for longer growth time before transplanting

Cons:

• Inserts need to be replaced yearly
• Requires a solid watering tray (sold separately)
• Requires potting soil to fill.

Re-Useable 72 Cell Plug Tray

Review:

The re-useable nature of this seed tray requires only adding new potting soil before each use. The deep 1.8 inch plugs allow for more root development despite the high cell count. We found the seedlings to easily grow for up to 4-6 weeks before requiring transplanting. Perfect for herbs, peppers, lettuces etc. Plugs are harder to remove at transplant time though and require loosening of the sides with a spoon or popsicle stick, increasing the chances of damaging roots.

Pros:

• Entire plastic tray is reusable
• Each cell has dedicated drainage hole
• Deep 1.8" cells allow for more root development.

Cons:

• requires base tray for drainage
• seedlings are harder to remove then with bio-degradable inserts or pellets

Summary

Over all we found that all three styles of seed starting trays had their own pros and cons making them great for different things. With all trays we tried, we found planting 2-3 seeds per cell and then trimming back to just one seedling after sprouting to give the best results.

The small Jiffy peat plugs where great for starting lettuces, herbs, and brassicas that can be transplanted out sooner even in cool weather. Tomatoes and cucumbers struggled in these peat plugs due to the limited growing space for the roots and required transplanting into larger pots fairly quickly.

The larger 32 peat pots where wonderful for plants that require more time to establish before being planted out. Tomatoes, cucumbers, herbs, and squashes all did well in this tray for up to 8 weeks. The only downside was the need to separate and space out some of the plants once they grew so large they where shading the other seedlings.

The re-useable 72 cell tray with 2 inch plugs worked surprisingly well, even for our larger plants, such as tomatoes and peppers. The deeper cell plugs allowed the plants to stay in the trays longer then expected. Removing the plugs without damaging the roots was a bit of a challenge though and took some getting the hang of.

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