In the peak season of pruning, workers need to prune a lot of acres. Thin branches are fine, but for thick branches, you must use special branch shears, otherwise, it will be easy to tear the cut, which will not heal well and affect the growth and appearance of the plant. Manual trimming is laborious and cumbersome, and you need to finish it for several days. A lot of money is spent, the work is not effective, and pruning is generally ineffective. It makes your arms sore and hurt, you need to rest and suffer for several days.
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The electric cutting shears are easy and convenient. You only need to send the knife-edge to the branch and press the switch gently. No effort is required, labor and time are saved, and the arm does not feel sore.
&#;. Advantages of electric pruning shears
1. Energy-saving. If it consumes 1 kilowatt-hour of electricity for 1.5 hours of continuous operation, it costs 0.7 yuan.
2. Higher efficiency. Electric cutting shears are 8-10 times more efficient than traditional manual pruning. The double-sided bladed knife design can be used for two-way trimming with high efficiency, which is more suitable for trimming or styling.
3. Good durability and low failure rate. The electric pruning shears run smoothly, the supporting structure of the whole machine is simple, the cutting capacity and life of the blade are high, there are few failures, and the adjustment and maintenance are more convenient.
4. The performance of electric garden shears is stable, and the tearing rate of electric garden shears is less than 10%. After pruning, it is close to the natural growth state of the hedge, the crown surface formed is larger, the pruning surface is neat and beautiful, and the buds and leaves germinate more neatly than manual pruning, and there are more germinations.
5. Strong protection function: personal/mechanical protection. When the blade is stuck with the wrench, the circuit self-check program will start the motor monitoring to protect the motor from burning.
&#;. Precautions for the use of electric pruning shears
1. Do not cut branches that exceed the working range of the scissors, and do not cut non-plant materials such as metal, rocks and other hard materials. Do not clamp the tool with a vise. If the blade is worn or damaged, replace the blade.
2. Keep the equipment clean. When cleaning, use a clean cloth to clean the electric cutting shears, battery and charger (do not use any corrosive or solvent-based cleaners), and use a soft brush or dry cloth to clean the dust on the scissors. .
3. Do not immerse electric cutting shears, batteries and chargers in any liquid such as water.
4. Please use the equipment correctly in accordance with the operating instructions. Do not use the electric pruning shears, battery, or charger when they are damaged.
5. The stock switch cannot normally turn on or turn off the electric pruning shears, please do not use the electric pruning shears. Electric pruning shears that cannot be controlled by a switch are dangerous and need to be repaired.
6. Make sure that the switch is turned off when making any adjustments, changing accessories or storing the electric garden shears. This protective measure will reduce the risk of accidental activation of the electric garden shears.
7. Please keep the idle electric pruning shears out of the reach of children with the blades closed, and do not allow people who do not understand the instructions or are unfamiliar with electric pruning shears to operate them, it is dangerous for users.
8. When using electric pruning shears and accessories, follow the instructions and methods of use. At the same time, consider the working environment and the work to be completed. Using electric pruning shears that do not meet the requirements may cause danger.
9. After use, remove the dirt from the movable blade and the fixed blade. Then lubricate the contact parts. In the normal maintenance state, the next use will reduce the resistance and extend the life of the blade.
Type of scissors for use with plants
"Pruner" redirects here. For people named Pruner, see Pruner (surname)
Bypass secateurs
Pruning shears, also called hand pruners (in American English), or secateurs (in British English), are a type of scissors used for plants. They are strong enough to prune hard branches of trees and shrubs, sometimes up to two centimetres thick. They are used in gardening, arboriculture, plant nursery works, farming, flower arranging, and nature conservation, where fine-scale habitat management is required. They are typically manually powered, although electric versions are available.[1]
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Loppers are a larger, two-handed, long-handled version for branches thicker than pruning shears can cut.
History
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Cutting plants as part of gardening dates to antiquity in both European and East Asian topiary, with specialized scissors used for Chinese penjing and its offshoots &#; Japanese bonsai and Vietnamese Hòn Non-B&#; &#; for over a thousand years.
In modern Europe, scissors only used for gardening work have existed since , when the French aristocrat Antoine-François Bertrand de Molleville was listed in "Bon Jardinier", as the inventor of secateurs. During the late s, secateurs were sold all over Europe and the US. Today secateurs are widely used by gardeners, vintners and fruit farmers.
The world's first anvil pruners were developed and produced in by Walther Schröder in Kiel, Germany. The pruners were given the product name "Original LÖWE" and were distributed internationally as far back as . Other companies producing anvil pruners include Bahco, Edma, Felco, Fiskars Gardena and Wolf Garten.
Collection of secateurs at Breamore House.
An extensive collection of historical variants of secateurs can be seen at Breamore House, Hampshire, England. They are housed in their countryside museum.
Designs
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Professional pruning shears often have replaceable blades
There are three different blade designs for pruning shears: anvil, bypass and parrot-beak.
Anvil pruners have only one blade, which closes onto a flat surface; unlike bypass blades it can be sharpened from both sides and remains reliable when slightly blunt. Anvil pruners are useful for cutting thick branches; one can bite into the stem from one direction, swing the handle around and bite further through narrowed wood from another direction. The anvil is made of a material softer than the blade, so that the blade is not damaged when it meets the anvil. Suitable materials for the anvil are plastic, aluminum, zinc, brass, or bronze alloys. The blades are made from hardened carbon or chromium steels. The hardness of the blades is generally between 54 and 58 HRC. On an anvil pruner, proper cutting is assured even if the blade swerves slightly to the left or right during cutting. As long as the blade meets the anvil at the end of the cut and fits tightly against it, the material is separated. For this reason, the blades of anvil pruners can be ground thinner than those on bypass pruners. The LÖWE principle &#; a drawing cut made against a fixed support &#; combines a drawing cut with a pushing cut. This is possible because the blade lever and base lever are connected by an eccentric bearing. When the pruners are open, the blade is longer than the anvil thanks to the eccentric bearing. When the pruners close, the blade draws back slightly while it pushes through the material. This reduces the cutting force needed to make a cut still further. Because they crush the stem they are cutting, anvil pruners are best for use on dead wood.[2]
Bypass pruners usually work exactly like a pair of scissors, with two blades "passing by" each other to make the cut. At least one of the blades will be curved: a convex upper blade with either a concave or straight lower one. Some bypass designs have only one blade, the lower jaw being broad (like an anvil) but passing the upper jaw. The ratchet pruner, which can handle stems thicker than two centimetres, fits in this category. Because they make a clean cut without crushing, bypass pruners are preferable for pruning live wood.[2]
Parrot-beak pruners consist of two concave passing blades, which trap the stem between them to make the cut. These are suitable only for narrower stems.[3]
Handle length
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Fig.1 shows the handle and head of an averruncator. Fig. 2 shows the head in use.
Secateurs have short handles and are operated with one hand.[4] A spring between the handles causes the jaws to open again after closing. When not in use, the jaws may be held closed by a safety catch or by a loop holding the handles together. Some types are designed for right-handed or left-handed use only, and some incorporate a rotating handle to reduce friction and minimize hand stress during repetitive use. There are also longer versions called telescopic pruners, which are adjustable for long-reach and operate by means of a rod system inside of a telescoping pole between the handles and the blades. An early version of these was known as an averruncator.
Type of blades
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There are two different types of blades for pruning shears: Stainless steel and carbon steel.
In addition there are pruning shears that have titanium coating.
Stainless steel have a high corrosion resistance, due to the protective chromium oxide layer that covers the steel surface after heat treatment. On the other hand, they are not durable for long.
Carbon steel has a higher carbon content, which gives the steel a lower melting point, more malleability and durability, and better heat distribution. The disadvantages are the quick corrosion and staining.
Titanium coated blades offer a balance between durability, sharpness and anti-corrosion.
Titanium is stronger, has higher corrosion resistance, and has about half the density (weight) of steel.
The titanium coating helps strengthen the blade and prevent corrosion, and after being sharpened a few times it will expose the steel edge underneath, giving the best edge with higher strength and resistance to corrosion over the length of the blade. The titanium coating is recognized by the gold colored blade as opposed to the typical silver colored steel blade.[5][6]
See also
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References
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- Secateurs at Wikimedia Commons
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